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>>>Yo starter, way to stir things up!!!
It can be like that in here, people will not read what you post and then fly off into some autistic orbit.
>>>>After your first flush, you dunk. Do you do anything to the top layer like remove old knots/pins, patch, add whole layer?
After 1st flush, pick off all fruits, including small lagger pins. Have a clean canvas. Then dunk. Yes, you might get a few pins show up while it was dunked aka growing under the water...just pick them off after the dunk. You'll be setting up for a whole new flush. So set a clean stage.
Once submerged overnight, anywhere from 6 to 8hrs (though I've gone longer to 18hrs and no probs), lift it out of the drink and let it drain 30 minutes. So use a flower pot or planter tub as your shroom tray growing vessel with the drainage holes left open.
That's why I use a 60/40 bottom case of 1/2", so it's only inert matter exposed at the drainage holes (not substrate). Same game play as how the 60/40 top case layer is inert to the open air above. You should also use catch trays too so you don't get muck in the terrarium. They may need to be drained out too several hours later.
I've played around with a few things, but this is what I find works:
In successive flushes and therefore dunks, re-patch any lost top-cased 60/40 -- be it from what floats off in the dunk to what was lost when you removed the fruits. If the casing shrinks, which it often does after a flush, then tamper gently some 60/40 material down the side walls with a clean plastic chop stick, or with any clean tool you like. This will stop the next flush from growing invitro. Needless to say, use a light proof container. That's easier than lining trays in foil, which all too often rip or work their way loose or block up the drainage holes.
A dunked post-1st flush and yonder 'successive-flushes' tray/s will not super saturate, as the mycelium body is hydrophobic and it will float like a cork. Many people experience this with PF cakes. So you'll need a brick or some other heavy object to hold it under. I haven't found dunked trays to go anaerobic and contam because they resist water getting in, which is why I dunk. It's a battle to get the water back in after a water robbing flush. I haven't though, tested a dunk on a newly made case, because it would simply disintegrate as it hasn't mended. It's after 1st flush that the mycelium body sets like a concrete, bonding to the top and bottom 60/40 case layers and can therefore take the unorthodox treatment.
Starter -- I thought we were all talking about grain -- grain is what Stamets is talking about in the casing chapter of TMC, too.
Go ahead, everyone -- dunk your casings I have my own ways of doing things, and I try to stick to them. Like I said -- everyone has their own niche -- I don't really understand how this thread turned into an argument.
Can you dunk your casings? Yes. Should you dunk your casings? That's up to you. Will I ever dunk a casing? No. Why not? See my last post.
If you like dunking your casings, go for it, but I like to keep the humidity down to a minimum because this will help to keep contamination down. That's just the route I go -- the route I've always taken, and since I've never had an actual problem with contamination I like to do things my way. Like I said, though -- individual results always vary -- what works better for me might not work better for you....
-------------------- Confucius viewed woman as a thoroughly irrational creature often as difficult to deal with as servants. - Max Weber
I agree with dunking your spawn. I've also read that garden sprayers work well for saturating casings. I've had many casings dry out before thier time and will try anything to keep them moist other than dunking. It seems to me that contamination will be an issue. (I know it's an old post, just my 2 cents.) BTW nice ScrOG setup, Starter!