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Essentially I'm beginning to feel that I have a firm grasp of what I need to do to have a successful grow with a few specific concentrated efforts. I would like to double-check with the community here to see if there's anything that I'm perhaps overlooking or oversimplifying, or if I'm looking at it just the right way. The reason it bothers me is that it seems almost too easy compared to the struggles people would endure even 10 years ago for such yields. But hey, that's the point of progress, I suppose.
So let's see. For my list of supplies I was thinking this:
- About (12?) one-quart widemouthed jars for colonization of either BRF, rye berries, or perhaps a better suggested sub? WBS, perhaps? -18 gallon plastic tub, more weather proof the better? I was thinking maybe try to get a clear lid with an opaque body to prevent side-pinning and sort of help ensure that the colonization period is completely dark with a bit more ease? I'm going off of intuition with these, I've never done a monotub before. Any advice is good advice. -Polyfill: I'm assuming that I will be using this once I want to introduce the colonized substrate to fruiting conditions -Coir and Verm- I was thinking this sounded one of the easiest sub/casing recipes. Once I've fallen in love with cultivation I may work up the bravery to handle manure more willingly but I'd like to keep it simple for now.
So to make sure I understand the process right, I'll give you a run down of what I intend to do with this.
Sterilize jars with substrate, let cool, and inoculate through holes in top of jar covered with microspore tape, then cover with an additional piece of tape after inoculating. Store jars in the tub on a shelf in a closet with temperature preferably between 75 and 85 degrees. Black trash liners may be used to help block light and air from reaching the jars, but allow for gas exchange to occur between the chamber and it's immediate environment.
I've heard about doing a shake a few days in. What kind of protocol are we looking at for how this should be done?
Anyway, after full colonization, as I understand it, I will be removing the colonized substrate from the jars, crumbling it into a spawn, and mixing that with freshly sterilized coir/verm mixture at field capacity, and placing it back in the same conditions as before for another 10 days to allow the new substrate to be colonized.
At this point I will remove the black trash liner, the tape from the holes in the tubs, and replace the holes with loosely packed polyfill. I will move the now-fruiting chamber into an area where it can receive a bit more air flow and light cycles. I intend to check on the moisture of the mycelium/substrate from time to time and mist if needed. (I recall hearing about a water/h2o2 mixture for sterility, but also heard rumors of it stunting mycelial growth. Does anyone have experience with this and it's effectiveness?)
Other than ensuring that I Lysol the SHIT out of the area I'm working with after wiping surfaces with bleach-water, and consistently ensuring everything I'm touching is sterile, is there anything I'm missing here? I feel like I understand quite well the necessities and weaknesses of each stage and what I should look out for in them but I like a little reassurance, I guess. =P Let me know what you think and I may introduce some pictures to the thread after a while, maybe work on some tutorials as well.
You've got the terms spawn and substrate mixed, spawn is the grains, substrate is the coir/verm. Side pinning isn't due to light, but the micro climate created by the gap between the shrunken substrate and the tub. To shake all you have to do is give a few taps with your hand or on a tire to shake up colonized grains so that there is equal distribution, do this once at around 20-30% colonization.
Also studies have shown faster growth in colonization with a 12/12 light cycle. Also mycelium likes produce CO2 and use it, so during colonization keep the polyfill tight. I would do some fanning throughout the day because mycelium also needs oxygen. Im gonna set a fan on a timer to fan on low for 30 minutes probably 5 times over a 24 hour period.
When your mixing the spawn and substrate. Try putting more grains or whatever spawn your using more concentrated towards the top. I actually had this idea and then read. But there opinions on why differs from mine. They say there would be more nutrients for the fruits to pull from. I think you should pack the top layer of SUBSTRATE down rather firm to condense it. This will give the mycelium itself more surface area rather than having crevices where stringy rhizomorphic mycelium would grow and not knot up. The concentration of spawn towards the top of the substrate will give the top layer a stronger growth. People do this method of layering like so..
once its fully colonized and starts to knot up, either up your fanning, or take polyfill out of 1 of the holes. Fresh air exchange and evaporation are your pinning triggers. Light 12/12 or 14/10. Misting and dunking during fruit development are experimental. Though you should check out the Hawaiian 64 qt monotub grow thread. just search for it...He mists right before the pins develop and then lets the moisture from the substrate do most of the developing. It has something to do with when hes picking his harvests and his sub being dried out. However, don't stop misting...mist every now and then. Mushrooms Im sure you know are 90% water and so obviously they need a lot. Keep an eye on your sub and how wet it is n what not. good "luck"
Excuse me if I'm wrong, but during the colonization process shouldn't I have duct tape covering the polyfill holes to allow only gas exchange, not FAE? It was my understanding that oxygen is BAD for colonizing mycelium, but great for triggering fruiting. Rather, that while they're in the dark closet, they need a lot of CO2, and once they're out in the light, then need O2. Am I looking at this the wrong way?
So if I use this lid tek, I should probably be fine, leaving them in the closet, right? Any recommendations for helping keep it near 80 in there? I can't think of anything that doesn't seem like overkill or like it could start a fire, and 80 is too damn hot for the whole house.
those lids are fine. and it doesnt have to be right at 80. i usually colonize and fruit in temps around 72-78.. and i was talking to someone the other day that does at around 65-68.. so i would guess anywhere in the ballpark would be just fine
-------------------- I am Dr. Leospaceman, and you should trust me because im a doctor..
Oh, neat. I've started to prepare the spawn, which I've chosen to be WBS. I'm filtering out the sunflowers seeds and bursted kernels at the moment (floaters). I noticed there are some small pieces of corn in the mixture as well. Will that be a problem? They sink with the millet but seem like they could be soggy or gross after the whole simmering/PC process. I suppose I could pick them out. Any expert opinions on that?
thanks btw, everyone who's shared their information so far. It's very appreciated.
Since I intend to use a vermiculite/coir bulk substrate, should I also include spent coffee grounds as well? I have heard this tip float around and assume that it contains some nutrients not present in the other materials? And what about gypsum? I'm kinda looking for a killer flush, to help compensate for the initial investment of all the gear involved.
Quote: Innoculus said: Anyway, after full colonization, as I understand it, I will be removing the colonized substrate from the jars, crumbling it into a spawn, and mixing that with freshly sterilized coir/verm mixture at field capacity, and placing it back in the same conditions as before for another 10 days to allow the new substrate to be colonized.
Don't sterilize the bulk substrate.
Pasteurization is common practice, and is sufficient. I don't know if that's just because sterilizing is too much work for so much material or if sterilizing makes the bulk sub easily contaminated. I believe it's the latter, but its probably actually a combination of the two.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Actually not everyone was a noob. Being a noob is a very new phenomenon. Many people, the great majority in fact, were simply "beginners", "novices" or "new to mushroom growing". Being a "noob" is reserved, and in fact created specifically for and by, the newer, much more lame generations coming about.
when your spawn is fully colonized, contamination becomes far less of an issue. Of course you still need to work clean, but no need to be uber sterile. Colonization temperatures should be kept at 75 82 is already to hot.
I'd skip the trashbags 2.
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