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OfflineHarveyWalbanger
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #10036587 - 03/25/09 12:18 AM (15 years, 7 days ago)

Carnivorous Plant FAQ

< mod edit - find the worm composting info on a non vendor site please, or just copy and paste the text instead of linking >

Edited by Dr. uarewotueat (04/28/09 12:12 AM)

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: HarveyWalbanger]
    #10099421 - 04/03/09 09:44 AM (14 years, 11 months ago)

I just have to add that this thread is amazing thank you everyone for putting all this great information and techniques in here. It's really helpful for someone like me who has no knowledge of any of this, but wants to learn. :thumbup:


--------------------
"How do we know whether the life of any creature has fulfilled its destiny? I have known the very old to die in bitterness and despair. I have seen young children die before their time but leave behind such a legacy of love and joy that grief for their passing was tempered by the knowledge that their brief lives had given much to others."
"You have answered your own question,Tanis Half-Elven, far better than I could," the Forestmaster said gravely. "Say that that our lives are measured not by gain but by giving." -Dragonlance "Dragons of Autumn Twilight"

If we lived in luxury we would grow soft.

No human being truely knows their full capacity to love until they become a parent.

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: fantasylndvictm]
    #10155220 - 04/12/09 11:08 PM (14 years, 11 months ago)
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A r g y r e i a nervosa

Seed preparation
A slight nick should be made away from the germ eye.  (Show me:
Here's the nicking process:  Take very sharp scissors and make a shallow snip away from the germ eye, just piercing the se ed coat. This is a fast and easy process.
After this is complete, it is recommended to soak the seeds in water for approximately 24 hours, or at least overnight. (If nicked properly, the seeds swell dramatically).

Planting the seeds
Some people place each seed approximately 1 to 2 inches (2 to 4cm) in potting soil with a good drainage system. It is very important during the first stages of growth to keep the soil moist, though well drained, as saturation must be avoided. It is important to keep the mix well aerated.
Soon, leaves will develop. If the leaves receive too much light they will scorch or wilt; this is also seen with lack of watering.


Above:  Argyeria nervosa seeds

Within the first one to two years of growth, this plant grows into a compact bush. After that, some of the leaves will fall off and it will elongate into vines. The vines have been known to grow up to 31 feet (10m) in length.
If consistent water availability is not maintained, these vines may die out before reaching that point and new ones will have to start. The vine will dry out to the closest node during this point. It is very well adapted to a dry tropical climate such as areas near rivers and creeks but with a distinct wet and dry season. It is not naturally found in the Wet tropics.
A 5-gallon bucket is suitable for starting two healthy plants. The massive root system of this plant can cause the plant to become rootbound within the first year or so. For example, a 5-year-old plant in a 15-gallon pot (after only six months) will begin to show signs of becoming rootbound. It is suggested to use a 55-gallon drum or a feeding trough (commonly used for livestock and horses).
The plant can start growing flowers as early as 18 months from seed. For this to occur, there must be sufficient watering and adequate room for the roots to grow; it can take up to five years for the first signs of flowering to become visible.
The seeds will be found in the pods of the dried flowers. These cannot be harvested until completely dried. There are 3 to 5 seeds, commonly 4, per woodrose. Please read several accurate sources before growing and use intelligence in secluding.
Native to eastern India, Hawaiian Baby Woodrose has been naturalized and cultivated in Hawaii. This lovely vine is covered with huge heart-shaped leaves as much as a foot across and are backed with silvery-white hairs. Three inch trumpet shaped blooms are rosy-pink with a deep purple throat and are held high on 6 inch stems. Seed pods mature to smooth dark brown and are surrounded by five petal-like sections resembling a wooden rose which are valued by flower arrangers. Growing to 15 feet or more, it typically enjoys warm temperatures and must be brought indoors in cold weather.

Argyreia forms a 1-2 foot bush in the first year from sowing, but grows quickly after the second year are loaded with lovely blooms that will produce seed. Sensitive to overwatering, keep the top inch or so on the dry side and grow in filtered sunlight.

















More Detailed Info



Growing Argyreia nervosa 
(Also called Hawaiian Baby Woodrose)

Natural Growing Conditions
Hawaiian Baby Woodrose (Argyreia nervosa), not to be confused with the Hawaiian Woodrose (Merremia tuberosa), is a perennial climbing vine, also known as Elephant Creeper and Woolly Morning Glory. Native to the Indian subcontinent and introduced to numerous areas worldwide, including Hawaii, Africa and the Caribbean, it can be invasive, although is often prized for its aesthetic value.
Germination
HBWR has a very tough seed coat and nicking aids in germination a lot. This is how I nick them. Take very sharp scissors and make a shallow snip away from the germ eye, just piercing the seed coat. Alternatively you can take a file a file away a bit, again away from the germ eye. Some people recommend pouring boiling water over the freshly nicked seeds, and to let them sit over night, I have found this is not necessary. Plant in free draining soil (HBWR is somewhat susceptible to rot) In any event if the seeds are good germination should occur in less than a week.
Lighting
HBWR does not like a lot of light when it is young. I put my seedlings in direct light every day until they show some signs of wilting, then take them out. This way the seedlings are getting the maximum amount of sunlight they can handle and soon adapt to it and pump out as much growth as possible. Alternatively you can start them off outside in pots in full sun. This way they will adapt to lots of light very quickly, again take them out of the sun when they show signs of wilting.
Water
Keep soil moist but not wet. As I mentioned they seem to be somewhat vulnerable to rot when they are young. Still make sure to water regularly. If they remain dry to long they will start to wilt and appear to have gotten too much sun. I have lost many plants thinking they where simply getting too much light when all it was was low moisture.
Once well established
HBWR, unlike its close relative Morning Glory, is a very slow grower, and can take up to two years to even reach a foot tall. I feed mine regularly with Peters 20,20,20, which it seems to respond well to. I'm sure any fertilizer will do. Also I recommend worm castings when younger (big fisherman and always have a bunch laying around:)). Whatever you use just make sure to start off with half the recommended strength.
Flowering and seeds
Let me start off by saying.... Good luck with that if you don't live in a tropical climate. I got a lot of flowers one year which eventually led to a couple seed pods. I hear the most important factor in getting them to flower (which I believe is true about any plant) is enough space for the roots. HBWR gets potbound very easily after its first year or so of growth... you think she's barely growing but it seems to focus her energy on growing roots. As I said I keep mine in a 20 gallon pot and its still potbound until I move it outside for the season. I can't think of any practical container that could be used to give its massive root system space, a 55 gallon oil drum perhaps.










Edited by Enter (04/27/09 11:10 PM)

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: HarveyWalbanger]
    #10246592 - 04/27/09 11:08 PM (14 years, 10 months ago)

http://www.plot55.com/growing/a.colubrina.html

Anadenanthera Peregrina (Yopo) seeds

Growing Anadenanthera colubrina

Cebíl, Vilca
Anadenthera colubrina - Vilca, Cebíl
Natural Growing Conditions

Anadenthera colubrina grows as a tree up to 20 metres in height. It is often found with knotty or thorny bark. Its leaves are of the mimosa type, a little like fern fronds. It has white to pale yellow spherical flowers, which form clusters and are covered in fine white hairs. The flat, burgandy-brown seeds are formed in pea-like pods, up to 35cm in length and containing anything up to 10 seeds each. It grows in open grassland throughout the Southern Andes. The climate is tropical to subtropical.
Growing from Seed

Fresh seeds germinate very easily, but seeds sold for entheogenic purposes are likely be too old and are unlikely to germinate. It is important to buy only seeds sold as 'viable' if you intend to grow this species.

The seeds should be pre-soaked in sterile water for 24 hours. Boil the water and leave to cool to room temperature before submerging the seeds. The seeds and seedlings are very prone to rot so it is best to germinate in a medium containing no organic matter. Sharp horticultural sand, perlite and vermiculite are all suitable. Ideally, these should be sterilised first too. It is also possible to germinate these seeds between damp tissue paper in zip-lock bags. It has also been suggested to me to germinate by submerging the seeds in fresh water and changing the water frequently until germination has occurred. Regardless of which technique is used, it is important that all water is sterile.

The seeds require a minimum temperature of 22°C to germinate, so a heated propagator, or other constant source of heat is essential. If you are using perlite/vermiculite/sand, plant the seeds in pots or seed trays about 1cm below the surface, and water lightly with a watering can or spray with a pump bottle. Make sure the growing medium is moist throughout, but not wet. Leave to stand for a while so any excess water can drain through the holes in the bottom. Then place the pots or trays in the propagator in a bright area away from direct sunlight. It is important that the pots/trays receive daily ventilation to prevent mould forming. You may need to water daily, or every few days, depending on the circumstances. Mould, and 'Damping-Off' fungus can be prevented (and cured) by watering with a half or quarter strength solution of Cheshunt Compound (this can be purchased in most garden centres). If you do not have access to Cheshunt Compound, sulphur, powdered chalk, or powdered limestone will help a little.

The seeds should germinate within a week, although this may take longer in some circumstances. Once the seedlings are showing through the soil, gradually acclimatise them to drier conditions, by providing progressively more ventilation. Water sparingly but regularly. Let the growing medium become almost dry between waterings, and stay alert for the appearance of mould, as this will kill seedlings very quickly. At the other extreme, you should ensure that the conditions are not too hot, as they will quickly wilt and die. I have lost several batches of these seedlings because of hasty removal from the propagator. Because the growing medium has no organic components, you should also start feeding with fertaliser. Begin by occasionally adding fertaliser to the water at 1/4 recomended strength, then 1/2 recomended strength, etc. Once the seedlings are big enough to handle safely, or are becoming overcrowded, they can be potted up individually.
Potting / Re-potting

For the first year they will grow slowly, and still require a free draining soil, such as 50% cactus compost, 50% perlite. Alternatively, ready-bagged bonsai compost would probably be suitable. In their second year re-pot in fresh compost. This time it can be very rich in organic components, but must still be fairly free draining. Something like 50% peat substitute, 25% coconut coir and 25% perlite, would probably be suitable. They should soon begin to grow more vigorously.

A 2cm layer of gravel or broken crocks (terracotta pots) in the base of the pot will provide extra drainage. Also, a 1cm layer of cactus top dressing or fish tank gravel on the surface will help to prevent the perlite from floating to the surface, cut down on excessive evaporation, prevent the soil compacting when watering from above, and it looks nice too.

Once they are established they will respond well to regular fertaliser feeds during the Summer months.
Once Established

They like full, warm sun and a free draining soil. They will not tolerate being waterlogged, and they are likely to withstand only a light frost. These plants will die if subjected to sub-zero temperatures, particularly if wet. Mine seems really happy being left outdoors all Summer, but I bring it indoors through the worst of the Winter months, and I'll continue to do so untill it's over 2m tall.

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #10246908 - 04/28/09 12:01 AM (14 years, 10 months ago)

Growing Nicotiana species

Tobacco
Nicotiana tabacum - Tobacco
Background

Tobacco has been used and cultivated in America for a very long time, 10,000 years by some accounts. High nicotine content varieties of Nicotiana tabacum and Nicotiana rustica were prized by many tribes. Both species are thought to be cultivars. N. rustica (Wild Tobacco) contains about 10 times the nicotine of N. tabacum, and should be considered one of the most important hallucinogenic entheogens, although both have been used ritually and shamanically by many tribes throughout the Americas.

Nicotianas are beautiful plants, growing to between one and two metres in height depending on the variety and growing conditions. They have huge green leaves and very sweet-scented flowers which range in colour from white to purple, through pink and red, for N. tabacum, or yellow (or even white or green) for N. rustica. They are straight forward to grow, and will give you no end of pleasure in the Summer months.


The Basics

Nicotianas are very forgiving plants, and although they are native to warm subtropical regions, they will thrive in cooler temperate parts of the world. If seeds are collected from your plants and re-sown, within a few years you can develop hardier varieties more suited to your local climate. They can be sown in Spring, will flower in Summer and can be harvested in early Autumn. For best results they require lots of fertalizer and lots of space for their roots, but I have grown them successfully in 20cm pots.
Growing from Seed

Nicotiana seeds are produced in abundance and are very fine. They can be sown any time in spring, but will produce considerably more growth if sown early in the season. Hold off early sowing if it is unseasonally cold, as frost will kill Nicotianas. Mix the seeds with about twice their volume of sand and sprinkle the mixture on the surface of your growing medium. They can be sown in seed trays, pots, or if it is warm enough, directly into soil. Water pots or trays from below by placing the trays/pots in a sink or large container and letting the water seep upwards through the holes in the bottom by capillary action. When most of the surface is moist, remove them from the water and leave to drain. Place them inside a propagator (heated if available). They require a temperature of 21°C to germinate. They also require light, so don't try to germinate them in the airing cupboard. They should germinate within a week.

Nicotiana seedlings should be transplanted when very small, within a week after germination. If transplanting is left until later it is very easy for their tap root to become damaged, which will result in very poor and sluggish growth for the lifespan of the plant.
Planting Out

Prepare the ground in advance by adding copious quantities of garden compost and, if available, well-rotten horse manure.
Growing in Pots

Even though Tobacco plants like a lot of space, they can be grown successfully in pots. Use the largest size pot you can reasonably accommodate, and give them plenty of rich compost. In pots they will require regular watering during the hottest part of the Summer months, sometimes daily. As I said, I have successfully grown Nicotiana tabacum in 20cm pots, they were sown too late in the season (around May), and yet they still produced abundant growth. They reached about 80cm in height and were still flowering well into September.
Where to Buy

< mod edit - no vendor links or discussion in the ethnogarden! > sell Nicotiana rustica (Sacred Tobacco) seeds and foliage.

Edited by Dr. uarewotueat (04/28/09 12:06 AM)

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #10246941 - 04/28/09 12:10 AM (14 years, 10 months ago)

Mimosa hostilis

Soak the seeds about an hour in hot (but not boiling) water before you, to prevent mould to occur during the germination process, plant them in perlite, grit or another not-organic soil. After germination (1-6 weeks) however, the plants can be transplanted in an organic soil. Give your young plants a lot of root space, much light and water them regularly. A little artificial feeding from time to time does not hurt either.

Mimosa hostilis is a perennial evergreen shrub that can become, in its adult life, no less than 4 meters high. In the wild the plant grows a lot on the dry desert area in the Northeast of Brazil (the Caatingas). At the firm branches, provided with mean thorns, grow a lot of feather - or fernlike leaves of a beautiful, bright green color. M. hostilis fourishes abundantly with a number of fragrant white 'ears'. The pods that follow are round and fall when ripe dividing themselves in 4 up to 6 sections. A part of the roots of the Mimosa hostilis are growing above the surface, these are fibrous and fragile, and generally have a beautiful pink color.

Mimosa tenuiflora is an entheogen known as Jurema, Jurema Preta, Black Jurema, and Vinho de Jurema. Dried Mexican Mimosa tenuiflora root bark has been recently shown to have a DMT content of about 1%.[3] The stem bark has about 0.03% DMT.[20] The bark is the part of the tree traditionally used in northeastern Brazil in a psychoactive decoction also called Jurema or Yurema. Analogously, the traditional Western Amazonian sacrament Ayahuasca is brewed from indigenous ayahuasca vines. However, to date no β-carbolines such as harmala alkaloids have been detected in Mimosa tenuiflora decoctions, yet the root bark is consistently used without added MAOI.

This presents challenges to the pharmacological understanding of how DMT from the plant is rendered orally active as an entheogen. It has even been reported in the literature that beverages using Mimosa tenuiflora likely have no true psychoactive effects. In this view, if MAOI is neither present in the plant nor added to the mixture, the enzyme MAO will break apart DMT in the human gut, preventing the active molecule from entering blood and brain.

The isolation of a new compound called "Yuremamine" from Mimosa tenuiflora as reported in 2005 represents a new class of phyto-indoles,[21] which may explain an apparent oral activity of DMT in Jurema.

For outside planting, USDA Zone 9 or higher is recommended.[22]

In nature, Mimosa tenuiflora ". . .fruits and seeds are disseminated by the wind in a radius of 5–8 m from the mother plant; rain carries them from slopes to lower plains and human activities contribute to their dissemination."[23]

For cultivation, the seed pods are collected once they start to spontaneously open on the tree. The collected pods are laid out in the sun so that the pods open up and release their seeds. The seeds can then be planted in sandy soil with sun exposure.

Scarification of the seed via mechanical means or by using sulfuric acid greatly increases the germination rate of the seeds over non-treatment.[23] The seeds can be sown directly into holes in the ground or planted in prepared areas.

The seeds can germinate in temperatures ranging from 10–30 °C, but the highest germination rate occurs at around 25 °C (about 96%), even after four years of storage.[23] Germination takes about 2–4 weeks.

It is also possible to propagate Mimosa tenuiflora via cuttings.[3]

Trimming adult Mimosa tenuiflorae during the rainy season is not recommended because it can cause them to perish.[24]

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #10248969 - 04/28/09 11:42 AM (14 years, 10 months ago)

Ayahuasca, Cielo (Yage) (Banisteriopsis caapi) seeds


Sow in spring preferrably but you can always try your own thing. Place seeds flat on sandy medium and cover with 1/4 inch of soil. Keep warm until germination. Protect from frost. Potted vines thrive in a shady greenhouse.

Germination note on this seed:  Trials showed germination at 100% in 45 days at 65 degrees F.  (7 seeds, 7 sprouts) There was no support for the herbal legend that the seeds should be buried head down and tail up to improve germination -- it works just as well to lay the seeds flat on their sides and cover with 1/4 inch of medium and keep slightly damp and at even temperature.  Or, you can put them heads down and tail out of the medium if you wish  --  that works, too.

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #10249008 - 04/28/09 11:49 AM (14 years, 10 months ago)

Tabernanthe iboga


Light & temperature requirements
Tabernanthe iboga is at home in the rainforests of West Africa. Temperatures here are always above 20 deg C and frequently above 40 deg C. In fcat, iboga stops growing at about 15 deg C and looses it's leaves at about 10 deg C. The tips start dying back if exposed to 5 deg C.

Repeated exposure to 4 deg C will cause severe dieback from which the plant may not recover. A sinlge frost or a couple of nights at 1 or 2 deg C will certainly kill most plants.

The rainforest provides a very moist and humid environment. Iboga plant will adapt to dry air, but will shed their leavs first. The new leaves will be smaller and tougher, but will withstand very dry conditions as long as the plant is watered frequently. Hardened iboga plants can be grown under HPS or other artificial lights. Being rainforest plants they prefer light at levels of less than 70%. Iboga ideally likes about 50% until it is a couple of years old and can then tolerate more. having such low minimum light requirements means that this species can easily be grown along the perimeter of artificial light rigs, where other plants will not be happy. It is also well suited as an indoor pot plant, but should be kept away from windowsills during winter.

Soil, water and nutrient requirements
Rainforests produce water by causing condensation of moist air in the lower strata of the forest. This keeps the rainforest floor damp at all times. The constant flushing of condensed water means that nutrients are constantly washed away. Most rainforest plants are well adapted to efficiently capture these nutrients in the upper layers of the forest litter and soil. When cultivating plant we should try to emulate this soil by using a light mix of leafmould or composted bark shreddings. Rainforest soils have perfect drainage and this can be a problem in commercial potting mixes. To avoid waterlogging it is wise to add at least 1/3rd coarse sand to the mix. Iboga quickly gets rootbound and needs plenty of space. The efficient rootsystem is also very vigorous and needs rooms to spread. Iboga is a heavy feeder and responds quickly to fertilising. Soluble fertilisers are a waste here due to high water requirement. Composted manures are perfect.

Natural propagation and germinating seed

Iboga seed is VERY perishable. In poor storage conditions it can loose it's viability within a few weeks. If kept at optimum conditions it will last about 4 months. To store seed properly it needs to be stored in a moist environment at about 10 degC. This prevents the seedcoat from drying out.
Very fresh and moist iboga seed germinates easily and without problems. As soon as the coat dries somewhat the seedling will struggle to emerge from the seedcoat and may rot. The seedling can be assisted by keeping the seedcoat very moist and soft, or by using a scalpel to carefully remove sections of seedcoat on a day by day basis. A piece of wet cotton or fabric can be used to keep the seedcoat moist by draping it over the emerging seedling. A high humidity environment (humidity dome or tropical hothouse) is essential.
If using a scalpel to help the seed it is important never to injure the cotyledons that are folded into the tiny folds of the seedcoat. Accessing 1mm per day is all that is needed and prevents excessive damage. As you ease the constriction with the scalpel, the seedling will slowly push itself out a little further, thus revealing the next safe place to cut another 1mm.
Trying to remove the whole seedcoat at once is almost guaranteed to fail. You should aim to remove the seedcoat within about a week of the seedling emerging from the growing medium, as any longer may weaken the seedling beyond recovery. Under normal circumstances the seedling will shed the seedcoat within 2 days and this is the minimum it should be allowed to try without interference.

To germinate the seed you will need to prepare a tray, pot or punnet with coarse sharp sand (please look up the exact preparation, as most other media and plain sand are entirely unsuitable). The punnet, pot or tray has to be perfectly free draining, which can be achieved by placing plastic shadecloth in the bottom to prevent the sand from escaping. The sand has to be at least 5cm deep. Place the seed in the coarse sharp sand about 10mm deep and water well. Never let the sand dry out, as if the seedling is about to emerge at this time it will dry up and die.

Also, if the medium dries, the seedcoat may dry and prolong germination. Keep seed at a minimum 25 deg C air temp. However, to achieve good germination the air temp should be about 30-35 deg C. Lowering the temperature will delay germination and increase likelyhood of fungal attack. Germination may occur within a few days, but may take up to several months, so be prepared to keep looking after the seeds throughout their full germination phase. Never expose seedlings to dry air until they have at least 3 sets of leaves.

This is also the best age to transplant the first time. Their first new growing medium should be mostly sand (90% coarse sand + 10% good potting mix) and should not contain ANY manure or other strong fertiliser. Osmocote is a good option here, but should be applied at minimal rate. Once the plants get to 5 pairs of leaves they are ready for strong growth and normal fertilising and should be potted into a mix as described in the section above.

Striking cuttings
Iboga cuttings are fairly easy to root. Take a stem section with two nodes. Remove the leaves from the lower node and cut off 2/3rds of each remaining leaf. Now insert the lower end into a tray or pot of coarse sharp sand. Rooting hormone makes no difference in this process. Put the pot or tray in a hothouse or humidity dome and keep moist, humid and very warm. Callus forms after about 10 days and roots emerge after another few days. Pot into a sandy potting mix after 4-6 weeks or when the plant has grown by another node.

Plastic-Bottle-Hothouse
A cheap and easy hothouse can be made from a softdrink bottle. This is possibly the most perfect way to establish your cuttings. The bottle used should be at least 500ml. If it is larger than 1l, then the air might be a little too dry for the cutting, but it will still work.
Choose a pot with a diameter a little larger than the diameter of your bottle. Fill the pot with coarse sharp sand, and place the single node cutting at least 3 cm into the medium (note: plant shown here is NOT iboga - this method can be applied to may different plants.
Growing medium shown is not sand.). Cut the bottom off the CLEAN plastic bottle and push it about 2-3 cm into the medium. The plastic cap can be used to adjust the humidity and temperature inside this min-hothouse. It is advisable to never close the vent completely, but for the first couple of weeks it is best to cover the hole partially to increase humidity. Place only one cutting per unit to avoid overcrowding. Watering can be done throught hole, or the bottle removed for maintainance.
Looking after potted plants
Most collectors will start their plants in pots as these can be placed into appropriate conditions without disturbing the roots. Iboga likes a lot of nutrients and will need plenty of root space. Make sure that the soil never dries out as rainforest plants have no protection from excessive transpiration. Plants can also be hardened off to survive in non-humid conditions. To do this without stressing the plant too much, remove all the leaves from the well established plant, leaving only the tiny growing tips. Now place this plant into a dry but shady spot and always water it well. As the new leaves grow they will be much harder and smaller.

Fertilise only when it is hot enough for the plant to actively grow. Composted manures are preferable to liquid fertilisers, but both will achieve results. Regular repotting into larger pots allow the addition of manure to the new potting mix.

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #10253247 - 04/28/09 11:27 PM (14 years, 10 months ago)
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #10253362 - 04/28/09 11:46 PM (14 years, 10 months ago)

a detailed pictorial i wrote for the germination of all cacti seeds:

Quote:

Dr. uarewotueat said:
so i thought i would set up a growlog thread to follow progress of the seeds given out during the seed give away thread, for anyone who wishes to play along :yesnod:

here is a pictorial of my seed germination tek.



ingredients:
cactus compost.
coarse washed sand.
gravel.
diatomaceous earth (DE).
fungicide.
*seed trays.
propagator.


 


1. mix the growing medium - approx. 4 parts cactus compost : 1 part gravel : 1 part sand. throw some DE in the mix at this stage too.
you can play around with the mix, for example if you are starting out with normal compost/soil then double the amounts of gravel and sand.
i don't nuke my soil, but you may do so if you wish.


cactus compost, as you can see it is quite sandy already and does not have much organic matter :thumbup:



the 3 main ingredients.



final mix.




2. mix fungicide solution - i'm using "chinsol" (83% ammonium carbonate, 15% copper sulphate) powdered fungicide, 3 tea spoons to 2 litres of water.
always mix too much and store in a spray bottle for use at a later stage.






3. fill up the seed trays - about 3/4 of the way deep with the growing medium and gently firm.
then sprinkle a light layer of DE over the surface, followed by a thin layer of sand.
tamp down surface of medium lightly and make it level and free of holes the seeds could disappear down.






4. stand seed trays in a watering tray, fill the tray with the fungicide solution and let stand for an hour to allow the medium to soak up the solution.





5. remove seed trays from watering tray and let drain for an hour.





6. first label and then add the seeds, sow them on top of the layer of sand. 
at this point you can add a final very light sprinkling of dry sand, just enough to surround the seeds.
do not bury them, they require light to germinate.
i have found it is easier to just drop the seed on the surface and mist with fungicide and this half buries the seeds.


 



7. mist lightly with fungicide solution then put them in propagator.
you could use anything as a means of creating humidity, platic bag, sandwich box, etc etc.





place somewhere warm and bright, above 20c is best, 25 - 30c would be better, not too much direct sunlight :yesnod:
use a flourescent lamp if you don't have a warm and bright place to germinate the seed.
a heat mat would be a good idea too if you have one.
you should get germination within 2 weeks.
keep the medium moist for the first few months.
take the lid off the humidity chamber and give fresh air as often as you can.
you can take them out of the humidity chamber after about 2 months.

i'm putting my seeds above a hot air vent in a window that doesn't quite get enough light but it will do for now and as the year progresses it will get more light :thumbup:




*seed trays. - you can use anything, an old take away food tray, plastic sandwich box, whatever you like.
so long as it holds the growing medium and you can poke some drainage holes in the bottom, it's all good :thumbup:




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OfflineDr. uarewotueat
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Dr. uarewotueat]
    #10253397 - 04/28/09 11:53 PM (14 years, 10 months ago)

a very good cactus grafting guide can be downloaded from the below link.
it goes into a lot of detail regarding the art of grafting cacti and even propagation of stocks.

Teonanacatl's Small Book Of Grafting Cacti.


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InvisibleWorld Spirit
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Dr. uarewotueat]
    #10253409 - 04/28/09 11:55 PM (14 years, 10 months ago)

I'll check it out.

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #10253726 - 04/29/09 01:13 AM (14 years, 10 months ago)

uPDATEd

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #10287009 - 05/04/09 09:39 PM (14 years, 10 months ago)
Log in to view attachment

attac

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #10289344 - 05/05/09 10:01 AM (14 years, 10 months ago)

Alright. After all that we have a new thread:
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/10275243/gonew/1#UNREAD


Please submit new stuff in that thread from here out and keep rockin with your plants out.

:evil:

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OfflineToltecatl
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: World Spirit]
    #15290247 - 10/28/11 10:02 AM (12 years, 5 months ago)

saving for reference


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Invisiblekarode13Facebook
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Toltecatl]
    #15292023 - 10/28/11 05:36 PM (12 years, 4 months ago)

You know you could of just toggled favourite thread instead of bumping a 2 year old thread and adding nothing.

Please refrain from bumping old thread unless you have something constructive to add.


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OfflineToltecatl
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: karode13]
    #15292049 - 10/28/11 05:44 PM (12 years, 4 months ago)

My bad. I thought it was good info that could be relevant to other members. I looked all over the page but couldn't figure out how to do that. How do I favorite this thread?


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Edited by Toltecatl (10/28/11 05:49 PM)

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OfflineHarveyWalbanger
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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: Toltecatl]
    #15293408 - 10/28/11 10:58 PM (12 years, 4 months ago)

At the very bottom of this page, theres a bar that says "Extra information".  Towards the bottom left side is a link that says "Toggle favorite".

On your user control panel, it'll be bookmarked under the bottom right menu labeled "Favorite topics"

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Re: Add a "How to grow..." article here pls [Re: HarveyWalbanger]
    #15296889 - 10/29/11 07:34 PM (12 years, 4 months ago)

Thanks Harvey. I PM'd the user to stop the off topic stuff. I probably just should've posted here.

A pictorial for others who may be wondering:



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