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This is something I found at the DMT nexus, altered slightly to fit the audience. I copy and paste here:
I found this in my email yesterday, the email address read only 'SWIM'
...no address or @ anything, just SWIM. Oh well, maybe you guys' SWIMs could find this useful:
"Obtaining pure mescaline has been quite difficult in the past. It once required the use of strong bases, corrosive acids, and stinky, toxic petroleum based solvents. Things have changed a lot, but obtaining PURE mescaline using ONLY food safe, non toxic materials has been a challenge. That problem may now be solved.
The idea is that by using carbonated water instead of vinegar, you will end up with a salt of mescaline that is insoluble in IPA, thus making it easy as pie to obtain pure white crystals - not goopy acetate resin. This also is likely to remove the alkaloid that causes some to become drowsy and foggy headed on impure extracts.
This tek begins with the non-toxic foodsafe extraction of mescaline a la 69ron. I will copy and paste the beginning of that and continue from there:
* 100 grams of died cactus, preferably dried green outer flesh with the core, spines, and the thin waxy skin removed from it. * 25 grams of edible calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime, or 'pickling lime,' just look at the grocery store next to the jars.) * 300 ml of any type of drinking water. Tap water is just fine. * 900 ml of food grade non-toxic d-limonene (orange oil) - Do a quick google search to find sources. * Coffee filters. * A large container to hold the cactus mix. It's best to use glass or metal. If plastic is used, HDPE or PP is best. Do not use polystyrene because it dissolves in d-limonene. * A dish for evaporating your final alkaloid extract in. * Carbonated water. Seltzer water can be found at most grocery stores. Make sure to check the ingredients, it should be pure carbonated water. Cans are better because they are smaller, while bottles lose their fizz quickly. * A sealable bottle or jar. Plastics must be checked as to whether they dissolve in limonene or not. The container must be air tight to retain pressure. Leftover isopropyl alcohol bottles work excellently. * 91% Isopropyl alcohol. This can be used as is (inefficiently), or dried with anhydrous magnesium sulfate (bake epsom salt in the oven for 2 hours, then dump ~90g into your alcohol, shake up, let sit, then filter).
1 - Powderize your dried cactus. Mix 100 grams of dried powderized cactus with 25 grams of calcium hydroxide. Add 300 ml [or WAY less, as most of SWIU have found] water to make it feel wet but not watery. Mix for about 5 minutes.
2 - Add 300 ml of d-limonene. Mix well. Let sit a few hours.
3 - Pour off the d-limonene through a filter. (It's really cool if you use a French Coffee Press for this. Using a French Coffee Press you press the cactus mix and squeeze out the d-limonene to get every last drop of d-limonene out. Then filter it through a paper coffee filter.)
4 - Open a fresh can of seltzer water and add about 600ml or more to the limonene in a sealable container. Shake hard, and make sure that the container is full of pressure. This could be an essential step, as pressure is required to form carbonic acid - so shake well!
5 - Put your container in the freezer to settle. Cold water may help lower the solubility of mescaline carbonate in limonene. This can be used as a super easy separating step to, as the bottom layer will freeze and one can pour the limonene out with the greatest of ease. A little warm water can be tossed in to aid the thawing of the carbonated water layer as well.
6 - Evaporate your carbonated water in a dish in front of a fan (SWIM would not recommend using heat).
7 - Keep the cycle going. Each limonene pull can be salted at least three times, and the cactus mush can be pulled many many times. You can reuse your salted limonene for new pulls, but remember that fresh limonene will probably always work better. SWIM always ends up combining all the different limonene pulls, salting them all at once, and throwing them back into the cactus. He always loses track of how many times this or that has been done though. - the best thing to do here is keep adding your seltzer pulls to the same dish. That way it evaporates while you are doing pulls, seltzering and separating, and eventually you have a big blob of stuff to clean up all at once. The cleaning step works better when there is a lot of stuff to clean, instead of trying to catch 100-200mg again and again.
*** Optionally, one can add 91% IPA to the evaporating dish to aid the evaporation. When SWIM did this, every time he noticed loads of crystals dropping out of the solution. So finally he filtered them through a cotton ball, and obtained white crystals. This could be worked into another step circumventing the evaporation of the water and the precipitation of the mescaline directly from the carbonate pull. Another idea might be to make carbonated IPA (is this possilbe?) and add that directly to the limonene to precipitate crystals without any evaporation at all. Experimentation is needed!
8 - What is left on your dish is impure mescaline carbonate, contaminated with other alkaloids. It will probably be sticky and brown, orange, or black. Occasionally it will be crystally, and this is the sign that mescalito will not need any more steps, and you are to consume as is. Usually though, you will need to clean it up. No problem though. Just scrape up your goop and put it into a container (preferably a tall, thin container).
9 - Add some of your homemade 99% isopropyl alcohol, and use a chopstick or a skewer or something to force the globs to dissolve. Sometimes it takes a minute for everything to get dissolved; sometimes more alcohol helps, sometimes it helps if the alcohol is SLIGHTLY warmed first. Put your container in the freezer (in the back with the ice cubes!) and wait a day or so.
10 - Crystals on the bottom! Decant your alcohol (save for evaporating and cleaning again, and eventually consuming!), and collect your crystals with slightly warm water. Usually SWIM just carefully pours everything through a bit of cotton in a funnel. The cotton collects the crystals, and can be sloshed around in warm water to release its goodies.
This is your mescaline carbonate. It could easily be recrystallized or washed again, but it's good enough for SWIM!"
yeah that's a great tek, Ive had great results with it. its changed everything, for me i don't use as much limo and i get LOTS of pulls....... one thing i do is ,i will clean it all with a couple of washes using COLD MEK to really get those impurities out, it give you a really clean LSD like experience.......Ron69 has made mescaline my new favorite!!!!!!!!!
I sure will be glad when someone comes up with something that works *very* efficiently (boo yellow goo from mesc. citrate techs), looks pretty (boo to the reddish-brownish crusty material that is mescaline acetate), and isn't dangerous (boo to HCL and H2SO4).
Carbonate seems like it fits the bill, but the pictures in the DMT-Nexus thread kinda put me off. The granular bits are much "chunkier" than what is produced from the citrate tek and it looks like the color is less than white. There is also still goo in the carbonate thread over at the Nexus.
Meh, to hell with it. Going to buy me a respirator and stick with the citrate tek.
So far my top yields have been 2.5g of white to off-white material per 100g of cactus using the Easy 3 Step Mescaline Citrate tek.
I think one could use citric acid water rather than vinegar or co2 water with limonene to good effect and still avoid xylene. The only downside to citrate is the excess acid is difficult to remove and throws off dosage.
The pics on the nexus were after only one wash I believe. Usually multiple washes are required to clean hcl and sulfate satisfactorily, so it is likely another ipa wash would reveal some clean xtals (I thought the final crystal pic looked grainy as well).
Will mescaline readily form a nitrate or phosphate salt? The acids used for those would obviously still be pretty nasty.
I've eaten plenty of torch and pedro, but never tried mesc without the full spectrum of cactus alkaloids. My curiosity has been aroused for sure.
I think I've taken water based preparation as far as it can go, unless I find a centrifuge at a garage sale. However, I feel it's still a good basis for preparation. It's a very cheap way to pull all of the alks out of your material, and it's easy to seperate back out. I've been shortening the boil between pulls substantially lately and working with the mesc in solution instead of the cactus powder.
Sure extra steps can hurt yield, but I want to see if there's less goo at the end by not directly exposing the plant material to the more powerful solvents.
To me the boiling phases are a compromise. I don't really see 100C as being too tough on mescaline, though I'm sure there is some loss. Still, to me that's preferable over having something sitting for long periods.
Once the goo was gone I'd take the remaining liquid down as far as it will go without getting thick. Add some NaOH dependent on the amount of material left, hit it with limonene, then salt it out.
I'm guessing some of the goo is ultimately from the broken down mucilage when the base hits the powder.
Quote: ReoSpeedwagon153 said: One can do a cold, vinegar acidified water extraction (multiple pulls, lots of time and water, or use this) then evap water with no heat to obtain a somewhat crystalline extract.
That is the most efficient way, likely. The limonene method I'm confident is roughly as efficient.
Your vinegar method isnt that good imo....
When you add water to the dried cactus it turns into snot. You would need A LOT of water/vinegar.
I say stick with the limo extraction, but what do I know...
It seems to be a common misconception that whenever water is added to dried cactus it just turns to snot. Not quite true. If the water is cold/room temp, the solid cactus chunks and water will separate within 15 minutes.
This water can even be run through a coffee filter, it is so unsnotty.
You do need a lot of vinegar and water though, and it takes quite a while to evaporate. A guy on the nexus (posts here too, actually) recommends a rice cooker, as it turns off when the water is evaporated, not burning your resin.
That method is by far the easiest and highest yielding method. Limo is a very close second.