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 ButterWeasels
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 Cobweb? Problems 
#7530339 - 10/18/07 09:42 AM (5 years, 7 months ago) |
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I have 3 monotubs going. Only got 1 flush off the 1st one and its recover period is almost over, but the surface is covered in grey shit. I didn't dunk the tub after the 1st flush I just sprayed it with water because it was a little dry.
In my 2nd monotub there are spots of grey by the bright white myc popping through the substrate.
Now, the 3rd monotub is the culprit. It was my first attempt at adding coffee grounds to coir. I dont think I pasteurized the substrate for long enough because it was the first to show signs of grey "mycelium". That and there are no holes in the sides stuffed with polyfill because I was in a hurry, so the only FAE the tub gets is when I fan it (the tub is 1 foot & 6 inches tall so I figure it doesnt need c02 exchange often, but due to not fanning its probly been at 100% r/h in that tub for days, only fanning a few times a day. This tub showed the grey stuff first, which I believe is cobweb mold.
A few days ago I mixed in some rubbing alcohol with water in a spraybottle and sprayed the crap out of tub3, hoping whatever kind of mold growing would die. Not sure if it killed it all off but its looking better and the Myc didn't seem to dislike the rubbing alcohol.
Long story short, due to fanning tub3 cobweb spores are probably all over my room. I'm flat broke until i get paid, and paid back from money lent to people except the $4.00 I've had in my checking. If cobweb as almost fully colonized a casing is it possible to fix it using H202? Also, I have been in contact with the cobweb (or contamination) and it causes me no ill effect at all (right now.. lol). I'd post pics if I could.
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ButterWeasels
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Also if the H202 kills off all the cobweb in tubs 2&3 is it a good idea to take the Tub3 substrate and mix them with the Tub2 substrate [Tub2 has polyfill stuffed holes for gas exchange, whereas Tub3 does not]? I'd hate to waste 3.5 quart WBS jars and a brick of coir especially if it's already almost colonized.
Either way Tub3 is getting holes drilled in it today, laziness comes back to bite me in the ass.
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HappyHardcore
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You MIGHT be mistaking this cobweb for very weak mycelium. If you have pictures, that always helps out best. Some cases I did awhile back, after the first flush, began to look a little greyish. The reason for this was that they were not properly hydrated and were beginning to dry out. If it spreads quickly then more than likely it's cobweb, but it may just be the weak, dry myc itself. And watch out with H2O2 because it can be harmful to the mycelium, and if it's weakest on top, then it's going to hurt it... Hope it turns out well 
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ButterWeasels
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It looks just like the mycelium just grey and theres no hyphae (i think) coming off of the grey stuff. Yesterday the recovering Tub1 looked completely uncolonized (surface-wise) and now its almost completely covered in grey. The casings PH was raised and everything. It feels humid in the tub and I will continue to mist it with water to make sure its not just dehydration.
If it is just a little dry, would injecting sterile water into the substrate help it? I don't wanna resort to hydrogen peroxide unless I have to because A. it hurts myc and B. i'd have to go buy some but wouldn't mind it if it saved my grow.
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ButterWeasels
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*Bump* Time keeps on slipping... into the future
Any opinions or am I going to have to wait for my roommate to get home to use her digital camera just to show u what it looks like? its definitely not healthy rhizo growth, at the least its weak ass mycelium but I would expect it to bruise blue from dryness before turning grey from weak myc.
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HappyHardcore
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Noticing quick growth of greyness is a "good" (yet bad :/) sign that cobweb is present. Remember, the number 1 reason for cobweb is stale air! It's not from a spore landing on your casing and spreading, so FAE is, as always, very important; not just for the sake of healthy mycelium, but to prevent cobweb as well. A picture always helps more than you can say, so most likely a picture will be needed to identify anything any further.
If, like you said, your casing looked very uncolonized on that one tub, then the next day covered in grey...  but not all is lost, just post some pics to get better opinions and information. As for the hydration, misting is the way to go. If you haven't read Hyphae's pinning strategy, now is a great time to read it...
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/3290155/an/0/page/0
You'll want to read all of it to absorb the information, but the "near saturation", as he explains, is what you'll need to learn. Try to get your casings to near saturation often, but not too much!, until it looks like its recovering its hydration. It's better to have it too dry than too wet, but best to have it just right. Goodluck, and get some pics up soon!
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ButterWeasels
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ive read the pinning strategy before and I figure I laid a too thick and/or uneven casing layer. Only 4 of 8 holes are stuffed with polyfill in each tub, so i will stuff the remaining 4 for some FAE. I misted all tubs with 3% Peroxide a little bit ago and as RR said it MELTED the cobweb away.
Is it a wise decision to put colonizing bulk sub on another colonizing bulk sub after both have been treated with H202 for [minor] cobweb? My 3rd tub is un-usable until i drill some FAE holes in it. The one with massive cobweb is going to be left in the dark to recover until its 2nd flush (hopefully).
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RogerRabbit
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Quote:
The one with massive cobweb is going to be left in the dark to recover
What does dark have to do with anything? I'll move this to the contamination forum.
RR
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ButterWeasels
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Quote:
RogerRabbit said:
Quote:
The one with massive cobweb is going to be left in the dark to recover
What does dark have to do with anything? I'll move this to the contamination forum.
RR
Yea sorry I didn't get sleep last night as I was tripsitting for a friend until 6am.
And if I leave it in the dark hopefully it'll recover quicker and colonize the top casing layer that got sprayed with H202 then misted with water a bit later.
So after 1 good spraydown that cobweb should be gone for good as long as I provide adequate FAE?
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RogerRabbit
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I've long recommended three sprayings, 12 hours apart, whether you see the mold back or not.
RR
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ButterWeasels
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yea it came back i just sprayed it again.. so lame
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