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 CptnGarden
fuck this site
Registered: 05/12/04
Posts: 11,945
Last seen: 3 years, 1 month
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 How To: Grafting Cacti 
#7266335 - 08/06/07 11:59 AM (4 years, 9 months ago) |
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First off, I would like to start by outlining the process.
Grafting is the process of adding one plant to another compatible plants rootstock, or as another has put it "The art and science of connecting two pieces of living plant tissue together to grow as one composite plant.", because different stocks could mean faster growth, better defense against rot, etc. different tops could mean better fruit, foliage, appearance, etc.
Grafts are often made onto Pereskiopsis sp (the most common as its produces some of the fastest results) followed by Myrtillocactus Geometrizans (the Blue Myrtle), and Various Trichocereus Sp.
cacti graft quite readily and almost any two cacti can be successfully grafted! the best time to graft is during the spring or summer, when the cacti is growing most vigorously.
also, its so easy, that with a little studying or practice, one can master this skill.
also, there are 3 kinds of grafts,
Flat, Cleft, and Side.
For beginners, flat would be the best and easiest. I will not be speaking of any method other than the flat graft, but I would just like to show that there is more than one way.
In order to graft you will need:
- An extremely sharp razor
- A humidity chamber big enough for your pot and grafts to fit in
- A rubber band (optional, ill explain why)
- Rubbing alcohol, and a lighter
- A grafting stock, and cactus to go on top
Lets begin:
- First get yourself a grafting stock, in this case I will be using Pereskiopsis Spathulata.
- Now find yourself something to graft to it, in this case I will be using Trichocereus Bridgesii.
- Safely uproot the desired Cacti from the rest of them, or take a cutting from a larger existing one. If you were to just hack a seedling and leave its base, it would most likely rot and could possibly spread to other seedlings in the batch.
- Cut your pereskiopsis' top off, using an alcohol swabbed, and then flamed razor edge. The reason scissors or trimmers wont work is cause it crushes the plant material as its cutting, and therefore damages the area where the graft wants to connect, preventing proper healing of the graft. Make sure your using a pereskiopsis thats at least an inch tall, the bigger the pereskiopsis, the faster the graft will grow (usualy).
- Preferably, you would cut your cacti off above its cactacea cotyledons (if its a seedling), or anywhere desired on your prefered cutting or pup. The only catch is, when you cut the cacti and look at the cut, theres going to be a center ring to the cacti, this is the growth scion of the cactus, and needs to be smaller in circumference than that of the growth scion on the stock.
- Place the cactus onto your grafting stock, and wrap a rubber band around the container, holding the graft ontop of your stock.
The rubber band is optional, as it helps bring the graft into contact on all parts of it, but it can also squish a seedling or break a pereskiopsis, depending on the size, strength, and whatnot of the rubber band you are using. You dont want to squish the cactus too bad, just put enough pressure to keep it all in contact, and push out any air bubbles that may affect the hold of the graft. You can simply just press ur thumb down on it for a few seconds (10-15?) and wait for a little juice to dry and the cutting to stay in place. As long as you dont bump it or have heavy wind blowing, kids, animals to knock it over, then i think it would be fine without a rubberband, given your graft is even already.
- Place your graft into a humidity chamber. I use a 1gallon water jug with the top cut off, and syran wrap rubber banded around the top. A few mists with a water bottle, close it up, give it some decent flourescent light, and in a month there should be very dramatic results that are clearly visible. If theres no visible or noticeable growth after 30 days, give the graft a little jiggle with your finger to see if its healed right, as most failed grafts will fall right off.
Be sure to keep your graft nice and humid, and its also good to open the container now and then and fan it out/pour out any standing water in the bottom, or mist if it needs to be re-moistened.
Your graft should be allowed to stay humid until you see some growth start, which will usually be a fattening of the top graft followed by vertical climbing.
- If theres any scraps of pereskiopsis left over (if thats what your using) dont be shy to plant it somewhere you can forget about it and come back later.
Heres my leftovers
the bridgesii stock is no longer good and should be tossed, but because of the succulents ability to withhold water, even a single node on a peresiopsis can survive rerooting.
^ image courtesy of Vertigo ^
Edited by CptnGarden (09/05/07 01:09 PM)
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shaftmonkey
Psychonaut
Registered: 08/01/07
Posts: 168
Last seen: 1 year, 2 months
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 Re: How To: Grafting Cacti [Re: CptnGarden]
#7266588 - 08/06/07 01:16 PM (4 years, 9 months ago) |
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this is a great guide thanks for this.
I was wondering if there is any exceptions in terms of scion for peruvian torch seedlings. I dont have any pereskiopsis located in the area but i was wondering if any other common cacti/succulents would be successful in this graft.
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CptnGarden
fuck this site
Registered: 05/12/04
Posts: 11,945
Last seen: 3 years, 1 month
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Re: How To: Grafting Cacti [Re: shaftmonkey]
#7266658 - 08/06/07 01:46 PM (4 years, 9 months ago) |
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Blue myrtle (myrtillocactus geometrizans) was also mentioned in the guide, this can easily be picked up at lowes or home depot. it usually has 4 ribs and is frosty blue. people often mistake it for san pedro.
If your not using pereskiopsis with trichocereus though, then your not gonna see the most dramatic results. and with peresk, when your graft gets a certain age, you can cut it off leaving an inch or so of peresk left on your torch, and just plant it down in the soil completely burrying the peresk and it will take over as the root system. it will continue this excellerated growth through maturity.
and heres a quote from my guide that is widely over-looked...
Quote:
almost any two cacti can be successfully grafted!
the only exception is that the center scion of the top graft has to be smaller than the center scion of the bottom graft. the bottom graft should be selected according to what your looking for. opuntia sp. or prickly pear, are wonderful stock if your live in a place that gets heavy rain. ive seen them in standing pools of water for months during winter, and even be frozen solid and still be fine 
most trichocereus root stocks would rot away in that weather.
given the opuntia has no open sores during the wet season, it can protect your graft from rotting in rains.
otherwise, most people use trichocereus as grafting stock, and it might be wise to just grow out your seedlings 
if your looking for fast growth, just pick a fast growing cactus as your stock.
once again important things to remember:
- Sterile !!!!!
- Top grafts center scion must be smaller than the stocks center scion
- Cut with a sharp razor, scissors crush material as they cut
- Keep in humidity tent until you start to see some growth (fattening or swelling of the top graft)
- BE CREATIVE!
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 ApacheShaman
Stranger
 
Registered: 06/27/06
Posts: 1,346
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Re: How To: Grafting Cacti [Re: CptnGarden]
#7266774 - 08/06/07 02:28 PM (4 years, 9 months ago) |
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thanks allot! great guide! thankfully my last graft was successfully! I'm so excited, tho i did waste 4 loph seedlings  .
P.S. check your ratings.
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shaftmonkey
Psychonaut
Registered: 08/01/07
Posts: 168
Last seen: 1 year, 2 months
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thanks a lot ill keep looking for a pere. aroun dhere
also, how exactly do you put on the rubber band? it doesnt make sense to me lol
Edited by shaftmonkey (08/06/07 06:37 PM)
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ApacheShaman
Stranger
Registered: 06/27/06
Posts: 1,346
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Re: How To: Grafting Cacti [Re: shaftmonkey]
#7269374 - 08/07/07 06:29 AM (4 years, 9 months ago) |
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btw, do you need to adjust it to your RH or can you just take the humidity tent off?
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CptnGarden
fuck this site
Registered: 05/12/04
Posts: 11,945
Last seen: 3 years, 1 month
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i waited til i saw fattening and growth on the top of the top graft. and then i just removed it from my RH. no weaning
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