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 Az0th
quantum transfiguration
 
Registered: 02/13/00
Posts: 53,427
Loc: The Void 
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 Lightweight Backpacking/Survival Compendium  4
#9664724 - 01/23/09 01:26 PM (4 years, 3 months ago) |
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This thread is intended to be an all-purpose source of information for all your backpacking needs - with a heavy focus on ultralight backpacking.
*Note - I have not included absolutely EVERYTHING, I'm sure some things may be left out.
But this is mainly as a primer for backpacking information and resources for the novice and veterans alike.
Ultralight backpacking does not mean sacrificing comfort. Quite the contrary - the foundation of ultralight hiking is increasing comfort and enjoyment levels of the outdoors by reducing pack weight without sacrificing important things like good food, a warm cozy shelter and essential survival tools. It's about bringing what you need and not bringing what you don't. In the old days, it was not uncommon for multi-day packs to weigh upwards of 80+ lbs. Thanks to advances in technology and lighter weight materials we can often see thru-hikers packing less than 20 lbs including food and water.
Many ultralight thru-hikers shoot for BASE PACK WEIGHTS (total weight of your gear MINUS food and water) of about 10-15 lbs.
Surviving is as much about sustaining your energy as anything else, and taking 40 or 50 lbs off your back saves a whole lot of energy. Not to mention wear and tear on your back and knees.
* It should be noted that ultralight backpacking is situational as to its effectiveness. GREAT for a thru-hike up the Appalachian trail, for example, where weather is generally mild and resources are almost always within easy reach. (Appalachian Trail thru-hikers in fact.. pioneered a lot of ultralight concepts and equipment).
NOT SO GREAT for say.. mountaineering to the peak of Mt. Everest, where you MUST carry tons of essential survival gear/food and extreme clothing. In some situations you may need to carry ALL your extreme weather gear, supplies, food and water for the entire journey, so there are some scenarios where 'going ultralight' is NOT a good idea. However lightweight gear choices without sacrificing ANY functionality is always a good idea to lighten your load.
ALWAYS pack according to your environment and climate, and always carry the 10 essentials at the very least.
As the boy scouts say, BE PREPARED.
There is a famous Ultralight Backpacker Saying:
"THE MORE I CARRY, THE MORE I ENJOY CAMPING.
THE LESS I CARRY, THE MORE I ENJOY HIKING
SO WITH THAT SAID, ARE YOU HIKING OR CAMPING?"
The general concept behind lightweight backpacking is to shave unnecessary weight wherever possible without sacrificing function or comfort of your essential items.
It's about having everything you NEED, and getting rid of the stuff you DON'T need. This is a matter of trial and error and experimentation. Another big concept is having things serve as a multi-purpose tool where possible.. For example you wrap some duct tape around a small pen, this saves space and you have a duct tape dispensing writing utensil. Duct tape is an invaluable tool, but no one needs to carry a giant bulky roll with 50' of tape. 3'-5' or so of duct tape should be all you should ever need to take hiking, for emergency repairs on your pack for example, or to help construct an emergency shelter. A simple bandana can serve a hundred different purposes.
Modern ultralight equipment often makes use of space-age lightweight waterproof materials like silnylon and lightweight but very durable metals. Titanium pots weigh practically nothing, and you can make or buy an "aluminum can" stove that weighs an ounce and boils water perfectly fine, instead of carrying a 'backpacking stove' that weighs 2 lbs.
You can get a ultralight pack that weights 3lbs total, vs a pack that weighs 9LBS,
A 2lb hammock vs a 5lb tent.. all the pounds and ounces add up. These are things to consider.
This is a work in progress - I will be expanding and adding to this thread over time,
Please feel free to contribute any sites with valuable information, offer suggestions or your words of wisdom.
Useful Links
http://www.wilderness-survival.net - Great site for general wilderness survival info!
http://hikinghq.net/
http://www.backpacking.net/
http://www.the-ultralight-site.com/
http://www.litebackpacker.com/
http://www.survivaltopics.com/
http://whiteblaze.net/ - The Official Appalachian Trail Thru-Hiker Forum
Gear Links
Campmor - Great place for cheap gear/clothes
Links to other threads
Make your own Ultralight Gear
The Ultimate Backpacking Checklist
Ultralight Base Loads
Post your blade
Great Articles
The Ultralight Philosophy
Reducing Pack Weight
Gear Planning
Survival Kits/Ideas - A survival kit is essential if you plan on going into the wilderness or backcountry. The basic idea is a LOT of lifesaving useful tools packed into a very small space, separate from and IN ADDITION to your normal gear and the essential ten. A basic survival kit contains all the essentials for survival (overlapping the ten essentials), including: Hydration, Nutrition, Extra Clothing, Illumination/Signalling, Sun Protection, Navigation, First Aid, Fire Starting, Knife/Repair Tool, Shelter. You can build your own survival kit for relatively cheap. This is something you can carry for a backup "just in case".
- Homemade Survival Kit
- Altoids Tin Survival Kit
- Survival Kit Packing List
* Not specifically mentioned in any of these kits, but what I consider as an absolute essential for my firetarting tools, is I always carry a Firesteel.
Light my Fire Firesteel - http://www.lightmyfireusa.com/firesteel.html
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. It weights mere ounces, and one firesteel can spark THOUSANDS of fires in almost ANY condition (even wet)... throwing a shower of 5,500F degree sparks with a flick of your wrist.
I also carry something similar to Fatwood or Maya Dust in my fire starting kit for tinder in tough conditions.
#######Gear choices#######
The first thing you always want to look at when considering lightening your load is what we refer to as the "Big Three Weights" - Shelter, Pack, Sleeping gear.
These three things combined are the heaviest pieces of gear you will carry. The only thing that should weigh more is food and water. Reducing weight in these three categories should be the first place you start, as you will get the most mileage from reducing weight here. Then you can start to fine tune the other stuff like cooking items, etc. Fortunately with our modern technology there have been amazing advances in ultralight gear and there are many options.
Shelters
Your shelter is probably one of the most important pieces of your survival gear. A human being can survive for up to a week without water... several weeks without food.. but in harsh conditions without shelter you will not last long exposed to the elements. Of course, one could always build a shelter from natural materials in a survival situation, or find a cave or hole to crawl in.. but in some situations that may not be an option.. a quick and easy cozy shelter and protection from the elements is VITAL to maintaining a good healthy state of being. And your mental state is PRIORITY NUMBER ONE in a survival scenario.
As far as ultralight shelters go, you have a couple options. Tarps, Hammocks, Ultralight tents and Bivy sacks, or any combination thereof.
Tents
A good tent is a good thing to have.
Pros:
- The major advantage of freestanding tents is that they have full coverage, are often roomy and can sleep multiple people, and can be pitched just about anywhere there is level ground. Tents are an all around solid shelter against the elements.
Cons:
- The major disadvantages of tents is that they are often heavier and bulkier then other shelter options. Not even a concern for the average car camper. A major concern for the backpacker.
- You also have to worry about sleeping on sticks, rocks.. unlevel ground.. and water getting in. (If you've ever woken up in a river, not fun)
Most lightweight backpacker purists tend to opt for more lightweight shelters such as tarptents or hammocks.
However there are now many modern lightweight backpacking tents nowadays weighing ~2 pounds, so they have come a very long way.
However, a good ultralight tent weighing 1-2lbs also tend to be very expensive since they tend to use carbon fiber poles, silnylon, etc.
Good Tent manufacturers: Marmot, Mountain Hardware, Big Agnes, North Face, Helleberg MSI
Hammocks
Hammocks are a very excellent option wherever there are trees. This is my shelter of choice for solo camping.
PROS:
- You sleep like a baby. It feels amazing on your back (is actually good for your back if you have back problems) and relaxes your muscles. It distributes all your weight evenly, so you are not sleeping on pressure points or waking up with weird crinks in your neck. It's like sleeping in a cocoon. I ALWAYS wake up feeling refreshed and amazing after sleeping in my hammock.
- You never have to worry about finding level ground, or waking up soaked laying in a pool of water because you camped in a ditch or valley and it poured, as can happen with a tent or tarp. .... you never have to worry about sleeping on rocks and sticks etc.. as you are off the ground. All you need is two trees or solid objects to hang off of.. giant rocks, I have even seen people hang hammock between two jeeps.
(PRO TIP - always tie your hammock to something VERY sturdy and stable. It is not only exerting all your weight against it, but as the force is exerting sideways and at an angle, AND you can swing etc... this multiplies the weight, a single person weighing ~180lbs sleeping in a hammock can potentially exert MULTIPLE HUNDREDS of pounds of lateral force against each side, so DO NOT hang your hammock on weak trees or unstable rocks etc.) Just to give you an idea, bigger people have been known to rip down support beams and ripped studs out of their walls by hanging hammocks indoors on weak or old structures.
- Much, much less chance of surprise snakes, scorpions or tarantulas and other creepy-crawlies getting in your sleeping bag or in your shelter. They like to stay on the ground.
- Most hammocks utilize a lightweight tarp (usually sil-nylon) over the hammock as a shelter. Most also have a built in very fine bug netting, so it's technically like a hammock tent. Hammocks are an excellent choice for jungles and moderate forests, and anywhere you can string them up basically. Stay off the ground and stay dry.. sleep like a baby.
- Hammocks are extremely lightweight and pack small. My hennessy hammock packs down to a very small package and weighs about 1.5lbs total.
CONS
- The absolute biggest downside to hammocks is that they generally sleep 10-20 degrees colder than being on the ground, as you have free air moving above you AND under you. The hammocks are basically just a thin layer of synthetic material so they are not really insulated. In warmer weather this is not an issue, but in colder weather you need some type of insulation and wind barrier underneath you, or the warmth will just get sucked right out of you. There are basically two options. You can use a closed-cell foam pad. They also have "underquilts" which is basically a down sleeping bags with water resistant shell that are cut to form to fit the hammock, you attach them underneath the outside of the hammock and this creates a thermal barrier and air insulation. These can get very pricey if you buy them (they run about $200-300). Some more crafty people make their own. But when it gets cold outside, it gets really cold in a hammock, so if you are sleeping in colder weather (anything under ~40-50 degrees) you need some dead air pockets and some type of insulation and wind protection. But with good insulation you can sleep in a hammock in freezing or subzero temps no problems. Here's an example of one popular company that sells underquilts - http://www.jacksrbetter.com/Hennessy%20Style%20Under%20Quilts.htm
I find a regular cheapo closed cell foam pad works great, in conjunction with a synthetic sleeping bag, this is the poor man's option. (it has to be CLOSED cell foam, or else it wont work at blocking the wind thus defeating the purpose). I have used this combination in temperatures down to about 20 degrees F with no problems while still staying toasty warm in my hammock. The major complaint people have with the pads, is that they generally make the hammock less comfortable to sleep in than not having one, and they can be bulky and cumbersome. But they do get the job done. This is probably the best alternative if you cannot afford or make your own underquilt. The obvious advantage to an underquilt, is that since they are outside of the hammock, it does not interfere with how you sleep inside it. The underquilt is more comfortable and are usually good to lower temperatures.
I have also seen people sew "pockets" all over the underside of the hammock. Then when they need insulation just stuff it full of leaves and grass.
The basic idea is just to create a wind barrier and dead air pockets between you and the wind/cold air.
Hennessy Hammocks - My favorite!
MacCat Tarps - Highly recommended
Speer's Hammock Tarps
Jacks R Better Underquilts, Tarps and Hammocks
Hammock Forums - Great forum for ALL your hammock needs!
How to stay dry in a hammock
Tarps/Tarp Tents
PROS:
- An excellent shelter option offering the ultimate in flexibility. Tarps can be pitched in hundreds of different ways, are extremely lightweight and very versatile.
CONS:
- The biggest downside to a tarp shelters is exposure to bugs (unless you have a bug netting), and being on the ground can be exposed to ground water and crawlies. Some people sleep with a tarp or 'footprint' under them in the tarp, some people just sleep on the ground in their bag.
http://www.litebackpacker.com/ultralite-shelters/index.html - Tarps and Tarp Shelters
Tarptent - The originals! Recommended.
Six Moon Tarps - These are amazing!
MacCat Tarps - Highly recommended
Granite Gear Tarps
GoLite Shelters
Bivy sacks
- Probably the lightest of all the options. For the uber-minimalist. They are basically just a waterproof sack that you put your sleeping bag in.
Some use these in conjunction with a tarp shelter for more weather protection.
Packs
There are literally hundreds of choices to choose from when it comes to packs. First, you need to decide how much gear you are going to be carrying, that is the biggest factor when deciding what size capacity pack to get. Then you need to decide between external frame or internal frame.
External frame packs are big and bulky. The frame is on the outside which the pack, suspension and pockets are attached to. They are good for carrying heavy loads, generally have lots of pockets, and being wider and bulkier, have a much higher center of gravity. External frame also tend to be a lot heavy than internal frames, and for these reasons they are usually avoided completely by ultralight hikers.
Internal frame packs are designed to fit snugly against the back. The frame is an integral component. They are generally more narrow, and tend to have less pockets than external frame packs.. focusing more on one big compartment and maybe one or two small pockets. Having a narrow profile, fitting snugly against the back and being much lighter than external frame packs - these are the packs of choice for ultralight hikers.
Here are some favorite manufacturers:
Granite Gear Ultralight Packs - Made famous by AT thru-hikers
Gregory Packs Maker of some very fine packs!
Six Moon Ultralight Packs
Assortment of Ultralight packs
Sleeping Bags
When choosing a sleeping bag, the most important factor is the temperature range. All bags are rated according to the lowest temperature they are effective to. So if you plan on sleeping in freezing conditions during the winter, you probably need a 20 or 0 degree bag (or lower, depending how cold it gets). For general 3 season camping, a 40 degree bag is usually fine.
However, be SMART about the bag you choose. Don't just get a 0 or 20 degree bag just because it's good to lower temperatures, if you mostly camp in moderate climates in the spring/summer/fall. Some people have two bags. A 40/60 degree bag for warmer seasons, and a colder rated bag for winter.
If there is one thing that is worse than being a little too cold due to choosing the wrong bag... it is waking up COMPLETELY DRENCHED IN SWEAT because you are sleeping in a 0 degree bag in 50 degree weather. HYPOTHERMIA is a very serious threat, and it does not have to be freezing temperatures to get hypothermia. Simply being wet for extended periods of the time, even in 50 degree weather can lead to hypothermia.
Staying warm is important. But equally important is STAYING DRY. This is also the same reason you choose synthetic wicking materials and wool clothes instead of cotton. Sweat is to some extent, unavoidable while hiking. Getting wet is going to happen. The idea is when you do sweat or get wet, for it to dry off as fast as possible. And cotton takes forever to dry.
If you ever DO get hypothermia on the trail.. the best thing to is GET OUT OF THE WET CLOTHES, get into CLEAN DRY CLOTHES, and get into your warm sleeping bag.
The second thing to consider, is: Down or Synthetic filling. The two both have pros and cons, you must figure out what is most important to you.
DOWN FILL:
Pros: very light, packs very small.
Cons: Almost ZERO insulation value when wet. Down relies on "loft" and air pockets to maintain warmth... and wet down has NO loft. So a wet down sleeping bag is almost completely worthless as insulation.
Also with down, the side your weight is on will have very little insulation (not an issue when sleeping on a sleeping pad, but this can get cold sleeping on a cold ground). If your bag ever gets soaked on the trail it will have almost no insulation value until it dries, this can be dangerous in a hypothermia situation, where a warm sleeping bag is critical.
SYNTHETIC FILL:
Pros: Retains ALL of its insulation value even while soaking wet. The side you are sleeping on retains its insulation qualities as well. This is probably the best choice for general 3-season camping, just for insurance. Better to be soaking wet and warm, then soaking wet and shivering.
Cons: a bit heavier than down bags. Much bulkier (takes up more pack space).
However, with advances in synthetic fill as well.. modern synthetic bags can weigh very little and can pack a lot smaller than they used to.
Making them comparable in packing size/weight to down. Although down will always be lighter in general, the gaps are not as big as they used to be.
Synthetic fill bags are the bags of choice especially for a hypothermia situation or when you may get wet.
KNIVES
Knives are another personal matter. There are a million choices when it comes to knives, but no one will deny that one of THE most important pieces of gear you carry into the wilderness should be a knife. Ideally you want a knife that is sharp, reliable and strong and will hold up under a lot of stress.. always keep it sharp. A knife is an invaluable tool in the wilderness and you should never be without one while backpacking.
There are also a LOT of great knife companies out there and I only have experience with a handful, so I can't name them all.. but some of the best and most respected off the top of my head are: Fallkniven, Gerber, Kershaw, RAT Cutlery, Cold Steel, Bark River, Mil-Tac, SOG...
For most tasks, any sort of knife will do really. I myself prefer to carry a couple knives, a main fixed-blade survival knife.. with a ~4" blade of high quality steel. I generally also carry a carbon steel blade for general tasks and everyday abuse, as these sharpen nicely. You don't need a 9" rambo knife, although a machete can come in handy in some situations.
A good knife should be able to handle almost any task you throw at it, from cutting rope to small branches to skinning an animal and slicing your food. A good bushcraft or survival knife should even be able to split branches and small logs.
If you want to split or process any quantity of wood though... get an axe IMO. A decent axe will split wood 10x easier and with 1/2 of effort of any knife, all day long. It's well suited for it's job. Different tools for different jobs. Axes are more dangerous than knives (due to their size and the way they are handled), and a good survival knife should be able to split wood if needed. But I recommend a small axe for bushcraft and survivalism. For most hiking purposes it usually isn't needed.. but if you plan to be in backcountry for any amount of time I highly recommend you carry an axe or at least a foldable saw as part of your arsenal as it can save you a LOT of energy. I personally carry a variety of tools, 2-3 knives, my gransfors bruks axe, and a sven folding saw. overkill maybe but like the boyscouts say, be prepared. I got a cutting and chopping tool for any occasion.
On that note - Gransfors Bruks makes the best axes I have ever seen, they are hand forged in Sweden and come with a 20 year guarantee. I have a Small Forest Axe and it's amazing. I had to plug them. It's not "ultralight" - but I don't think I'll ever go backcountry without my axe ever again.. it only weighs 2 lbs. I think it's worth its weight in gold.
Related Knife Stuff:
Knife Forums
Post your blade
Ultralight Alcohol Stoves
Penny Stove
Trianga Stove
How to make a Pepsi Can Stove
Full list of different alcohol stoves and how to make them
Clothing
Touched on this earlier with sleeping bags. A few common principles to outdoor clothing.. No cotton period if it can be avoided.
Synthetic polypro wicking type materials or wool are ideal. The reason for no cotton is simple, because when it gets wet.. it stays wet for a very long time. This is whatever in hot/dry climates. But in cooler climates and in winter environments this can create serious problems if you get wet and stay wet for a long time, which can lead to hypothermia. It doesn't have to be freezing temperatures to get hypothermia either. People have been known to get hypothermia in 60 degree weather. Pick synthetic fabrics or wool for your outdoors gear, as they breathe well and dry VERY rapidly. Even if you don't get wet from outside, you will sweat, and you want clothes that will wick it. This includes your socks. Nuff said.
You want some rain gear. Generally this just means some kind of waterproof jacket or shell. Waterproof pants aren't really needed in most cases but they can help depending on what kind of weather you expect, it's up to you. But a waterproof outer layer or poncho or something is definitely needed. I use Frogg Troggs. Many thru-hikers swear by them for their extreme lightweight and very good water repellent but also breathability.
Dress according to the weather and climate. If it could potentially be cold, bring plenty of cold clothes. Bring EXTRA DRY CLOTHES, bring EXTRA SOCKS. If there's anything worse than wet feet, it's wet feet for long periods of time developing into trench foot and blisters... NO FUN. Your feet will get wet at some point, if you are backpacking, ideally you can dry out your boots/shoes and socks at the end of the day and have fresh dry socks to wear. Try not to walk in wet shoes for long periods of time.
DRESS IN LAYERS. Don't bring big bulky things. Instead, opt for multiple layers of thinner material, that way you can remove or add layers as needed.
Usually the legs don't require as much insulation... so even in winter conditions, a thermal base layer and some waterproof/windproof pants/shell is usually all you need unless its super cold. Also while hiking you generate a lot of heat so not much clothes are needed, hikers are usually smelly and don't care. Many hikers only bring 2 or 3 changes of clothes,
but just make sure you are always adequately geared and prepared for the weather you plan on being in.
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~Thought Creates Reality~
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Az0th
quantum transfiguration
Registered: 02/13/00
Posts: 53,427
Loc: The Void
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking Compendium [Re: Az0th]
#9664892 - 01/23/09 01:59 PM (4 years, 3 months ago) |
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Water
Water is one of the most important things on (and off) the trail. Dehydration is your biggest concern. You can only live a few days without water. After one day you are already deteriorating. Water is life.
While hiking, As a general rule you want to consume ~1 gallon (4 liters) of water per day in order to stay properly hydrated.
In hot weather, exposed to the sun, and excessive sweating.. this number increases significantly. In a desert-type environment one may need to consume twice as much water as normal, or more.
Things like Coffee, Soda, Tea, Alcohol, Salty, Processed Foods, Smoking.... all dehydrate you even more.. and the toxins require additional water so that your body can flush it, so you must drink even more water to replace those fluids that are used.
Water should be your beverage of choice, you can occasionally switch it up with some electrolyte or fruity mix as you can get tired of drinking water all the time.
However, as important as it is to drink water, you don't want to drink too much. Better to be overhydrated then dehydrated. However you don't want to drink so much water that you flush all the salts from your body, so it's important to keep a balance. There is such a thing as drinking TOO MUCH water. But most people just naturally know when they are properly hydrated. It's far more dangerous (and harder to tell) when you are dehydrated, so err on the side of caution.
PRO TIP: BY THE TIME YOU ARE "THIRSTY", YOUR BODY IS ALREADY IN THE BEGINNING STAGES OF DEHYDRATION. DRINK WATER OFTEN.
This means to snack often in order to replace all those lost carbs, fat, protein and electrolytes.
You will want several ways to carry small amounts of water, as well as a way to filter or purify it from a natural source. Regular plastic gatorade or soda bottles work fine for holding water - you need not buy expensive (and heavy) nalgene bottles. For carrying larger quantities of water, consider a water reservoir/pouch similar to a camelback, they come in all sort of forms. A cheap alternative is those bags the box wines come in.. they hold about 3 liters.
However water is heavy, (1 gallon of water weighs ~8.5 lbs) and on the trail, you can't carry a 7 day supply of water with you.... so you need some way to acquire it from your environment.
You do not want to drink water straight unfiltered/unsterilized from a stream or pond or natural source unless you are absolutely 100% positive it is a pure source. The parasites Giardia and Cryptosporidium are an outdoorsman's worst enemies and no joke at all. There are other bacteria and parasites (and chemical waste!!) to worry about, but those are the most prevalent. In the US/Canada, it very unlikely you would ever encounter any bacteria which could potentially kill you.. the worst you can expect is to make you very sick.. but the last thing you want in the backcountry is an extreme case of diarrhea and puking for a week straight, in the wilderness this can be a life-threatening illness, so don't take your water lightly. If you plan on traveling to 3rd world countries or places with poor sanitation like Cambodia or Malaysia, you have a whole host of other parasites to worry about.
The following are the most effective methods for water purification:
- Water Filters- Most GOOD water filters with a 0.2 micron carbon filter or better will remove both Giardia and Cryptosporidium, as well as most bacteria and parasites. The only thing water filters will not remove is viruses, unless they have a "iodine matrix" (viruses you only really have to worry about in third world countries or areas with very poor sanitation) and chemical pollution. In most cases a GOOD water filter is all you need, but if you are concerned about the source, then filter the water first, then boil it.
- Boiling water- at a "ROLLING BOIL" for 5 minutes will kill any bacteria, pathogens and viruses in the water... basically everything. This is the oldest and most reliable way to purify water. The only thing boiling does not kill is chemical pollutants.
- Iodine- is effective at killing most parasites, bacteria and viruses when used correctly, but it leaves a nasty taste (which can be covered up by flavored mixes or vitamin C). But long term use of iodine treatment is not recommended as it can lead to thyroid problems. Iodine is not 100% effective at killing Cryptosporidium however.
Reverse-Osmosis- Filters can be used, but are not at all practical for hikers as they are bulky, heavy and expensive. They are able to desalinate salt water (for use on lifeboats or at oceans) and will kill almost all biological contaminants.
Viruses are very seldom found in water, especially in wilderness areas, but the odds increase near dense population areas and poor sanitation practices. Most filters will not remove viruses unless they have an iodine matrix, iodine will kill them but boiling is the most surefire method. Thus it is recommended in third world countries and anywhere with a questionable water supply - to always boil the water for at least 5 minutes.
For the most reliable method of water purification - I recommend a combination of filtering your water, and then boiling it. This is almost sure to purify even the nastiest of water - aside from chemical pollutants.
Chemical pollution can NOT be removed by boiling, most filters, or iodine. So it is to be avoided completely.
i.e - Don't get your water downstream from a chemical plant or major farm, the hudson river in NYC.. etc.
Chemicals could include heavy metals (arsenic, mercury, etc) or organic toxins (fertilizer, pesticides runoff, etc).. these could ruin your day in a hurry.
But water in the backcountry is seldom contaminated with a sufficient amount of toxic chemicals to cause concern. The best way to tell is to LOOK in the water, is there ALGAE GROWING on the rocks? Are there FISH swimming? Are there PLANTS growing on the side? Are there LIVING things IN and AROUND the water? SMELL the water, does it smell like.... water? Or does it smell like raw sewage and sour nasty smells? If this all checks out, then it is probably safe, from toxic chemical pollution anyway. You still want to purify via boiling or another method to kill any parasites, even if it looks crystal clear.
Links
Tips for finding safe drinking water
Limitation of Water Filters and Water Purification
Food Choices
Food is a personal matter, but many hikers can agree on some of the basics. While hiking you are going to be hungry and will need to consume a lot more calories per day than you normally would. 4,000-6,000 calories per day is about the average. With backpacking.. food is one thing you don't want to skimp on. But you can make smart choices by bringing super dense/nutritious foods, dehydrated fruits/veggies/meat etc. You want things that will pack well (wont get crushed and can last a while without refrigeration).
So basically you are looking for the most nutritionally dense foods possible, in terms of nutrition-to-weight ratio.
Your body makes energy mainly from 3 things: Protein, Fat, and Carbs. It's generally accepted that the ideal trail diet should be about 65% carbs, 15% protein and 20% fat.
Omega 3s are very important and most people do not get enough of them in their normal diet, you have to be extra vigilant on the trail. Foods that are especially high in Omega 3s are fish, hemp seeds, flax seeds, and walnuts.
You also need to get your vitamins. Vitamin deficiencies are not uncommon on the trail.. the most common ones would be a lack of Vitamin C, and B12. As vitamin C is most prevalent in fresh fruits and vegetables, it is unstable to air, light and heat and breaks down. Thus dried fruit loses up to 90% of its original vitamin C content, it can be tougher to get on the trail.
Calcium and Iron deficiencies are also not uncommon. Cheese and red meat (jerky, sardines, seeds are generally the easiest sources of these.
- Canned food is generally a bad choice as they are bulky and you have to pack that extra weight in and out.
Tuna in the foil packs works very well in my experience. And one exception I would make to the canned foods rule is maybe sardines in a tin, if you like that sort of thing.
- GORP/TRAIL MIX..(Good Old Raisins and Peanuts) - This is a hiker snack staple. Any kind of mix of nuts, raisins, m&ms/chocolate, dried cranberries/bananas other dried fruit, etc. etc.. This is probably the ultimate snack food for backpackers. Super dense high-energy food, high in calories, protein and good fats. Satisfies the salty and sweet palate... great for replacing those lost body salts. Jerky is another protein snack favorite. Energy bars are also popular.
- Avoid an excess of sugary foods as they will cause sugar highs and a later drop.
- Look for whole grain pasta mixes, jerky, grits, dried fruits, flat bread, peanut butter, oatmeal, etc..
- Avoid anything "instant" or made from bleached white flour, like Top Ramen.. white macaroni, instant oatmeal, 1 minute rice.. crap like that is just empty carbs and will not satisfy you.
- Super nutritious superfoods can include: chlorella, seaweed, hemp seeds, walnuts/almonds, olive oil, dark chocolate, flaxseed, "green" veggies like kale/spinach etc.. beans, whole grains, and wild berries like blueberries, raspberries, goji berries, etc..
In addition to the food you pack in, you should also consider supplementing your diet with food from the wild.. especially on longer trips. It's never a bad idea to learn about the edible plants in your area.
Fishing, Hunting/Trapping, and foraging for wild edible plants are all excellent ways to get nutrition from the wild.
It is a good idea to bring a fishing kit if you will be near a lake or stream. A gun if you plan on hunting, or you can make a bow and arrow or other type of hunting weapon.
NOTE: Make sure you properly identify wild plants before you eat them, there are things out there that are quite dangerous to eat, some of which look very similar to edible plants. Same with mushrooms...
Some wild edible plants
As for animals.. if it crawls, flies or swims, it can probably be eaten safely, with very few exceptions. As a rule, Do not eat insects with bright colors, stingers, or lots of legs (spiders, centipedes, etc), unless you are one of those crazy spider-eating freaks. Fresh water fish should always be cooked before being eaten due to parasites and bacteria. Saltwater fish can generally be eaten raw. Mmm
Making a survival bow and arrow
Fishing
Making a fish spear
Trapping
Some different snares
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Az0th
quantum transfiguration
Registered: 02/13/00
Posts: 53,427
Loc: The Void
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking Compendium [Re: Az0th]
#9664895 - 01/23/09 01:59 PM (4 years, 3 months ago) |
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Reserved
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~Thought Creates Reality~
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 canid
irregular meat sprocket
Registered: 02/26/02
Posts: 9,473
Loc: looking for zeebras, n. c...
Last seen: 13 days, 1 hour
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: Az0th]
#9703101 - 01/30/09 12:46 AM (4 years, 3 months ago) |
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may i mention WildernessSurvival.net.
lots of good topics there, from pictorials and how-tos on outdoorsmanship, indigenous/abo skills, etc. to discussions about the impending zombocalypse and financial collapse. a good blend of the practical and the hillarious.
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Along a path I walk this night, clear to no other eyes than mine.
In faerie circles perchance I might, hope Elven honey bread to find.
Over stream and tangled root I leap, o'er bough and slumbering badger's keep.
Under hoary oak and willow I bound, to find such groves as can be found,
the sating mushrooms; spring's delight, as gifts from figures of the night.
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Icelander
The Minstrel in the Gallery
Registered: 03/15/05
Posts: 79,813
Loc: underbelly
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: canid]
#9706210 - 01/30/09 05:02 PM (4 years, 3 months ago) |
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Cool site for some ultralight gear.
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"Hang on tightly, let go lightly" -anonymous
“under the present brutal and primitive conditions on this planet, every person you meet should be regarded as one of the walking wounded. we have never seen a man or woman not slightly deranged by either anxiety or grief. we have never seen a totally sane human being.”
― Robert Anton Wilson
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Brainiac
Rogue Scientist
Registered: 04/29/06
Posts: 13,259
Loc: 與您的女朋
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: Icelander]
#9762891 - 02/08/09 11:17 PM (4 years, 3 months ago) |
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Edited by Brainiac (02/08/09 11:21 PM)
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Icelander
The Minstrel in the Gallery
Registered: 03/15/05
Posts: 79,813
Loc: underbelly
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: Brainiac]
#9764913 - 02/09/09 11:15 AM (4 years, 3 months ago) |
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I like.
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"Hang on tightly, let go lightly" -anonymous
“under the present brutal and primitive conditions on this planet, every person you meet should be regarded as one of the walking wounded. we have never seen a man or woman not slightly deranged by either anxiety or grief. we have never seen a totally sane human being.”
― Robert Anton Wilson
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GabbaDj
BTH
Registered: 04/08/01
Posts: 19,285
Loc: By The Lake
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: Az0th]
#10539646 - 06/19/09 11:11 PM (3 years, 10 months ago) |
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Since your now in LA you should love the information you can find on this site..
http://www.localhikes.com/msa/msa_4472.asp
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World Spirit
PNW
Registered: 07/27/01
Posts: 9,817
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 Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: Az0th]
#10634227 - 07/07/09 06:51 AM (3 years, 10 months ago) |
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If you need a super lightweight and easy to pack item to cover your sleep area in the rain for short or long periods definitely consider bringing a wet weather poncho or 4x8 tarp (tarps this size are around $5.00 online). You'll also need four bunji cords to tie the corners down.
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kechlesurf
Stranger
Registered: 11/30/07
Posts: 1,072
Last seen: 2 months, 3 days
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: Az0th]
#11310819 - 10/24/09 11:44 AM (3 years, 6 months ago) |
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How well does the Jacks-r-better quilt with the Hennessy Hammock. I have the henessy but my back gets cold everytime i go backpacking, even 5000 ft up in July. But i switched over to the Eno and that shit is awesome, has great accessories, great underquilt.
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Az0th
quantum transfiguration
Registered: 02/13/00
Posts: 53,427
Loc: The Void
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: kechlesurf]
#11315726 - 10/25/09 01:43 AM (3 years, 6 months ago) |
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I've heard good things about Eno..
Never tried it but supposedly Jacks-r-better quilts fit right on hennessys..
pretty sure their original 'nest' was designed for ultralight backpacker A-sym
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~Thought Creates Reality~
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kechlesurf
Stranger
Registered: 11/30/07
Posts: 1,072
Last seen: 2 months, 3 days
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: Az0th]
#11318630 - 10/25/09 03:49 PM (3 years, 6 months ago) |
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my buddy is in the process or opening a backpacking store in North Carolina and he is the one who got me on hennessy, but he loves the eno, i am looking forward to trying it out this winter in the north carolina mountains, hopefully i sleep warm
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WWorker
...
Registered: 09/09/07
Posts: 395
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: kechlesurf]
#11516775 - 11/24/09 06:35 AM (3 years, 5 months ago) |
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some other alcohol stove options: These are a lot lighter OR more efficient than the trianga or penny
white box stove
minibulldesigns stoves
"cobalt" alcohol stove - guy is selling on ebay. Best stove for the money IMO
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KillerPicklez
Registered: 12/13/07
Posts: 15,699
Loc:
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Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: Az0th]
#11695196 - 12/21/09 11:06 PM (3 years, 4 months ago) |
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Thanks for putting this thread together. It is full of helpful information and links!
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pseudotsuga
Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 502
Loc: usa
Last seen: 2 hours, 6 minutes
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 Re: Ultralight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: canid]
#14691791 - 06/29/11 03:37 PM (1 year, 10 months ago) |
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anyone frequenting the sierras should check this wild food compilation of the area.
http://www.backcountryrangers.com/plants_index.html
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legit27
Killuminati
Registered: 03/29/10
Posts: 12,336
Loc: europa
Last seen: 2 hours, 7 minutes
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Re: Lightweight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: Az0th]
#15736942 - 01/30/12 07:13 AM (1 year, 3 months ago) |
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Too Legit 27 quit.
All posts are SWIM's personal anecdotes.
Once you get the message, hang up the phone.
Ik Onkar; Om.
Gate gate paragate parasamgate bodhi svaha
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realfuzzhead
Registered: 03/04/10
Posts: 10,721
Loc: above the smog layer
Last seen: 5 days, 23 hours
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Re: Lightweight Backpacking/Survival Compendium [Re: legit27] 1
#16073404 - 04/11/12 02:01 AM (1 year, 1 month ago) |
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awesome stuff shroomism. I brought a freaking hookah with me backpacking. And believe it or not I bring a 7x7 camping tent and a camping sleeping bag and I still use my dad's backpack that he bought in 1960. My bag weighs so much it's fucking ridiculous, but it is fucking nice having a hookah out in the wilderness
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