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 dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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 Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search)   4
#14360324 - 04/27/11 11:57 AM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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Edited by dankakanat (04/27/11 11:58 AM)
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 Perun
Mahapralaya...
Registered: 11/11/10
Posts: 585
Loc: Serbia,Portugal 
Last seen: 1 month, 13 days
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 Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14360340 - 04/27/11 12:00 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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First: Then:
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14360370 - 04/27/11 12:08 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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This is not my tek credit go's to (sungirl)
Microwave sterilize vermiculite
Ok so this tek will envolve using a microwave and ziplock steamer bags to sterilize vermiculite. Lets begin by gathering all necessary items.
1) Ziplock steamer bags
2) vermiculite
Ok easy enough, next we fill the ziplock steamer bag with vermiculite.
Then we add water. Just add enough water to make the verm. wet enough to be field capacity.
Next we seal the bag and place in the microwave
Microwave on high for 15 minutes
And here we have sterilized vermiculite sealed in a ziplock bag for storage. Although I would not recommend storing it for long.
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Edited by dankakanat (04/29/11 12:22 AM)
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369525 - 04/28/11 10:55 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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this is not my tek full credit go's to (Wool_dozer)
incubater
Well, I have been shopping around for a cheap heating pad to replace my space heater. All of the heading mats I have found are at least 20$ for a 10x20 inch size, and 5$ or 10$ shipping.
I was using a small space heater next to my incubation shelf, but it uses 1200 watts on the low setting, and by using these heat mats, I can incubate the same amount with only 200 watts of electricity.
First off,
Supplies list
Flexwatt heat mat. 10 feet @ 3.60/ft 49$ shipped
Flexwatt connectors. 8 @ .50ea 4$
AC rheostat 6$
Metal outlet box for rheostat 1$
Extension Cord 8$
10 feet of lamp cord 5$
Electrical tape 2$
Liquid electical tape 5$
4mil black plastic 4$
Bubble wrap free, saved from xmas packages
4 tier plastic shelf 26$
packing tape 2$
aluminum tape ?? just had it around
shrink tubing ?? same
Tools List
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers/Crimpers
Pliers
Scissors
Measuring Tape
Lighter or heat gun
Screwdrivers
Now the good part. Get all your supplies, here is what I started with:
Flexwatt and Connectors
Rheostat, box, wires, and extension cord:
A few tools:
Here is most of what I started with:
Now you need to measure the length for your heating mats, here is the plastic shelf I am using, with the bubble wrap that we will use later.
Here are the mats, cut to 30". You should also measure the distance between the shelves, so you can cut your wires that will connect the mats together.
Cut the female plug off the extension cord so you can connect the wires to the rheostat. We will also need to strip the wires so they can be attached to the mats. The feed the wires into the junction box that the rheostat will be mounted on later.
Now the wires are all connected, and I put an eye connector on the green wire. This will be mounted to the screw that holds the rheostat down. This way, the rheostat, the cord, and the junction box will be grounded.
Now you can screw the rheostat down to the junction box and your controller is done. This type of knob clicks down to turn on, and rotates to turn the power up and down.
Now it's time to attach the wires to the heat mats with the connectors. Here are the jumper wires cut to length, and the mats with the connectors crimped on. There are better pictures later showing the connector locations.
The jumper wires need to be stripped first. Then cut some of the heat shrink and slide it on the wire before you crimp them, like this.
Here is a picture with the heat-shrink on the bottom connector and the upper connector crimped. There are two wires on the upper connection since it connects mat-to-mat.
Here are all the wires, mats, and controller connected....almost 1/2 done now
Now I set all the mats on a table, so I can coat the connectors with the liquid electrical tape. I put 3 coats on each side of the metal.
Here is a picture of the connectors covered with the liquid tape. Then I cover the connectors and ends of the conductor strip with 2 layers of vinyl electrical tape.
Now the mats are complete, time to get the shelves ready. First you will use packing tape, and attach the bubble wrap around the outside. Leave a decent size opening, this will be the door later.
Once you have finished with the bubble wrap(insulation), get the heavy black plastic that will keep out light.
Cover the bubble wrap with the black plastic, but leave an opening for the cords on the heat mats. They go in next.
Next, put the piece of plastic that will be the 'door' on. Also, tape a piece of bubble wrap to the door to insulate it too. Should look like this.
Here is an update. I was having some trouble with the grains drying out on the bottom of my jars and bags. I had about 1/8" of dry grains where the containers were contacting the heat mats. I put in pieces of 1/4" plywood, but they didn't help out much.
So, I took the heat mats off the top of each shelf, and taped them to the bottom, hopefully the 2" or so air gap will allow the heat to disperse and keep from drying out the grains at the bottom of my containers. I also put a layer of bubble wrap below the bottom heat mat to insulate it from the floor.
These pics are of the incubator laying down, from what would be the bottom if it were standing.
I used the bubble wrap because it was free, and since it provides a stationary air layer, it is an effective insulation. I have some other insulation I have looked at, but not work the price.
A rheostat was recommended by the manufacturer of the heat tape because most thermostats are on/off, not a continuously variable power supply, and when the mats are run at 100%, they have a shorter lifespan. It was also very cheap, and to get a thermostat that is a variable power output model would have doubled or tripled the cost of the whole thing.
Before I moved the mats to the bottom of each shelf, I made plywood spacers and had shelf/mat/plywood/jars, and I think that would be similar to your stacked insulation suggestion, but it didn't help much, but the larger air gap from the mats underneath the shelves seems to be doing noticeably better.
I also thought about putting the mats up the sides, but I wanted the mats centered in the incubator to maximize the efficiency. Since I wanted them to heat through convection, and not conduction, a central placement in the incubator is more efficient than placing them on the sides.
Also, the max output of all 10 feet of mats is 200 watts, and the rheostat is normally about 1/2 way up, so I assume the whole unit is using about 100 watts if the rheostat has a linear output.
I agree 100% thicker insulation would help, but I am only heating it to around 20F above ambient, so there is a point of diminishing returns when the temperature of your heat source is that close to the temperature of your heat sink.
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Edited by dankakanat (04/29/11 12:21 AM)
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Doc_T
Random Dude
Registered: 03/06/09
Posts: 42,395
Loc: Colorado 
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369532 - 04/28/11 10:57 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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Fuck me, that's a lot of expensive dangerous fail in one place!
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You make it all possible. Doesn't it feel good?
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369576 - 04/28/11 11:06 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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This not my tek credit go's to (Hippie3)
WAFER TEK
1. Slice fully colonized cakes into 1/4" to 1/2" wafers.
2. Place wafers side by side onto a 1/2" layer of moist (not soaking wet) vermiculite in a dark (opaque) pan or tray. Completely cover the bottom of the tray with wafers.
3. Cover wafers with a 1/2" layer of good pastuerized casing material (I use straight peat with a little lime to adjust the pH) that is slightly moistened.
4. Cover trays with a greenhouse type lid or just cover with saran wrap and leave alone in a semi dark place at around 70-75 degrees F.
5. When you see the casing layer being grown over with mycelium scratch the surface gently with a fork and start fanning a few times per day while misting lightly with a mist bottle. If possible, drop the temp a few degrees to stimulate pinning...
You should see an amazing amount of pins forming from each wafer shortly after misting starts. Keep humidity in casing level as even as possible until carpophores are fully developed...
This method works really well and usually produces many more mushrooms than nursing whole cakes to fruition. Try it and see for yourself...
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369619 - 04/28/11 11:15 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (Drenkhahn (Drenkhahn)
Wick Tek for BRF Cakes
Setting up the wick.
Nail hole in the center of a 1/2 pint jar lid..
Insert wick like so...
At this point you want to spike a hole, verticly, through the cake. I used a small metal rod (cleaned with rubbing alchohol but not sterilized).
Then you gotta kind of jerry-rig your wick to what ever you are using to push through your cake so that the wick is inserted through the entire length of the cake.
Once the wick is inserted through the length of the cake, pull the wick snug so that the wick is sitting striaght. It should extend out 2-3 inches from the bottom as in the picture.
Fill up the resivoir (I used a 1/2 pint widemouth jar) with distilled water. Be sure the wick lies well below the water.
You can PC the jar and water if you want. I did not, and no contamination is visible to this day..
Results?
As stated above. FOAF used a control cake, double end cased, under the same growing conditions from start to finish.
So far so good..
...
(drum roll please)
Wicked cake = 95g wet
Control cake = 61g wet
Ugly as hell, but with a bit more effort and control who knows what the furture holds...
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Edited by dankakanat (04/28/11 11:16 PM)
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k00laid
NEMO
Registered: 05/03/10
Posts: 17,632
Last seen: 25 days, 4 hours
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: Doc_T]
#14369661 - 04/28/11 11:22 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
Doc_T said:
Fuck me, that's a lot of expensive dangerous fail in one place!
LOL this thread has some interesting information.
most of those links are like over 2 years old arent they?
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AMU - AMU Q & A - MyVideo Teks!
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k00laid
NEMO
Registered: 05/03/10
Posts: 17,632
Last seen: 25 days, 4 hours
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369668 - 04/28/11 11:23 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
dankakanat said:
sterilized vermiculite sealed in a ziplock bag for storage. Although I would not recommend storing it for long.
what? then its defo not sterilized.
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AMU - AMU Q & A - MyVideo Teks!
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369678 - 04/28/11 11:27 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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not my tek credit go's to (Guest_JuggaloKlown_*)
JuggaloKlowns coir preperation tek
So lets start:
First things first, start water boiling, I use tap water, it will work. You'll probably need a very large pot, and you'll have to fill it 2 or 3 times.
start getting together supplies
2 blocks of coir
5 gallon bucket with lid
Calcium Carb (reptile sand)
Malt Syrup
karo
Vermiculite
coffee grinds (optional)
i also have some spawn and filterpatch bags, as this is how i make my invitro coir bags.. this mix will work for ANY bulk substrate recipe!
be sure your malt syrups out to get room temp!
this is so you can squeeze out the water, just plain pillowcase's
so here is your Calc Carb i use the blue reptile sand:
ok so water should be boiling by now,
place coir into the bottom of the bucket, and put a tablespoon of calc carb on top o the block:
pour in some malt!
add two quarts of verm per block of coir:
add two tablespoons of Karo (no pic, self explanatory)
add water! and stir!
to do this TWICE
now cover with lid, let sit till cool enough to work with, AND ITS DONE!!!!
i've had a 0% fail rate using this method, juST be sure to wring out the water with the pillowcases, when you grab a handfull and squeeze, there should be SMALL flow of water, not like if you were using it as a casing material, u want this a lot more moist.
I would say Coir comes in as a good 2nd to Horse manure as a bulk substrate.
It is MUCH CHEAPER, easier to prepare, and works GREAT,
however it has it's downside!
it doesn't flush very long, and it is difficult to handle when you rehydrate it.
Here are just a few of my coir tubs, and bags:
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k00laid
NEMO
Registered: 05/03/10
Posts: 17,632
Last seen: 25 days, 4 hours
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369688 - 04/28/11 11:29 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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you dont think all the sugar drains out with the water? 
just wondering
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AMU - AMU Q & A - MyVideo Teks!
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369698 - 04/28/11 11:32 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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not my tek credit go's to (magicman1900)
Blotter Shroom Paper
While attempting a Crystals of the Gods extraction from a half ounce of PE using 200 proof ethanol, my damn mason jar cracked about an hour into it, and I lost everything into my hot water bath. Instead of wasting it, I decided to just evap the water down, so every day when I woke up I turned the burner on the lowest setting and let it slowly evaporate. This took several days, as the water never got too hot to touch, and there was no fan on it. Last night I strained out the little bit of water that was left and put it in front of a fan. When it was almost dry I dropped a piece of paper towel in the evap dish, cut to size, and this is what I ended up with:
^^It was stuck in the dish, so I added a few drops of ethanol to unstick it, this is it drying in front of a fan. There were still some crystals stuck on the bottom of the evap dish, so I know they are all up in that paper towel. There was a 1/2 oz of PE in there, so I drew lines on the paper to make 30 "hits". That is slightly less than a 1/2 gram per hit, so we will see how it is
You can kinda see the perforations I drew on the other side of the paper. Next time I'm just going to soak the powder in ethanol for 5 days, strain, add fresh alcohol, wait 5 days, then combine the two liquids and evap down. (It's good to shake it up several times a day too while it's soaking in the alcohol). Heating it up takes forever and it sucks if the jar breaks
You can easily do this by just soaking the powder in hot water, just as you would for making tea, but I have a very weak stomach and can't take my preferred dose without intense stomach pain, even with tea, that is why the crystals of the gods is my favorite. Extracting with alcohol never gives me stomach pain, where the tea still does. For most people the tea is the same as the alcohol, so if you don't really have stomach discomfort when eating mushrooms, there is no reason to waste your alcohol
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369743 - 04/28/11 11:40 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (NineInchNails)
Bulk Pasteurization Technique
I want to start out first by saying that this is not my idea and has been done before by many people and many different ways.
Materials Needed:
1 Cooler
1 Thread Tap 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Tap) and is somewhat optional
1 Brass Barbed Fitting 1/4" x 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Tap)
6' of 1/4" Fuel Line
Optional - Teflon Thread Tape
How To:
I threaded the inside coolers' drain hole using a 1/4" thread tap. If you do not have a thread tap and do not want to buy one then you can just skip this step and go straight to the next. The threads on the barbed fitting should bite the plastic well enough to make a positive seal (and don't use thread tape).
I used some thread tape on the 1/4" x 1/4" barbed fitting (which is optional) and installed the barbed fitting.
Now attach the other end of the fuel line to the steam port on your PC.
How To Use It:
1.Load the cooler with containers of field capacity bulk substrate.
2.Fill the PC with an adequate amount of water.
3.Turn heat to high.
4.Once steam begin entering the cooler the temp should begin rising inside the cooler.
5.Monitor the core temp of one of the bulk substrate containers. Once the core temp reaches 140F you have begun the pasteurization process.
6.Maintain the core temp between 140F-160F for 60 to 90 minutes then turn off the heat.
While I was waiting for the PC to start steaming I decided to install a temp probe port. I drilled a 7/16" hole in the center of the lid.
I then used the 1/4" thread tap in the hole.
I screwed in a 1/4" plastic plug, but I drilled the center out so I could use both a meat thermometer, a thermometer probe or both at the same time.
Here's what it looks like when the steam started coming out!
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Edited by dankakanat (04/28/11 11:41 PM)
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369790 - 04/28/11 11:48 PM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (Nan (Nanook)
Spore Collection
Prepare a 1/2 pint (wide mouth) mason jar by making a mushroom cap holder in the top.
Use wire to make a cradle that hangs on the top edge of the jar. Insulated solid copper wire (18 ga or so) is great for this as it won't corrode from the sterilizing.
The mushroom cap should sit down in the top of the jar so the jar can be covered. Fill the jar about 2/3 full of distilled water, put the cradle in place, put a piece of cloth or filter material over the top, then a piece of Al foil over that. Lay another piece of Al foil fairly loosely over the first one. Pressure cook for 20 - 30 minutes at 15 PSI. (The reason for the 2 layers of foil is that one can remove the top layer to expose a sterile surface on which to lay the cap while the air in the transfer box turns over a few times.)
When cool, put it in the transfer chamber. Select the mushroom you want to use and wait until it starts to drop spores before cutting the cap off with a sterile knife. You can use a fish hook to hold and carry the cap. Remove the loose Al foil and place the cap on the newly exposed sterile foil top (in the chamber,) put on the chamber lid and turn on the fan.
After a few minutes, pick up the cap, lift the foil and cloth top, and place the cap on the wire support.
Cover with the filter material only and put in a draft free, dry area for a couple days. A rubber band helps to hold the cover in place.
You'll see the spores on the surface of the water. A gentle swirl will wet them. Remove the cloth cover, mushroom cap, and wire support all at once (in the chamber.) Open a new baggie and put it over the jar. Put a rubber band around the jar to seal, then draw syringes of the spore water by piercing the plastic bag.
The reasons this procedure is preferred over the dry tek are:
1) the spores don't have to be scraped loose from the bottom of the jar.
2) the unsterile mushroom cap never touches the jar.
Both these things help reduce the possibility of contamination.
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369903 - 04/29/11 12:06 AM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (faht (Fahtphish)
Fahtty Isolation/Mycelium syringe tek
1. Overview - This is a tek that I use to isolate substrains and make mycelium syringes
at the same time without the use of a glovebox or flowhood. Although it is required that
you are experienced with grain substrates. This can be done in a few minutes while making
you spawn grain jars/bags what have you.
First take a clean 1/2 pint jar and fill the bottom with a 1/2 inch or so of hydrated grain substrate.
(Note- I used dry popcorn kernels just for demonstration purposes only... you are going to use
hydrated grain). Here are a couple examples..
Now cover with two layers of tyvek and lid band (this is what i use, you can use polyfil or any number of ways
to seal the jar) and PC normal, 15 psi for 45 min...
When this is done and cool remove from PC and clean the center of the tyvek with rubbing alcohol....
Now poke thru the center of the tyvek with a spore syringe (sterile of course) and ONLY PUT ONE DROP IN THE MIDDLE...
I have found that this is VERY hard to do.. lol but it is ESSENTIAL for this tek to work....
Now DO NOW SHAKE, DISTURB, OR EVEN MOVE the jar... if you can, inoculate the jar in the exact place
you are going to let it colonize. The reason that you don't want the jar to be disturbed is that you
want the spores to germinate as close together as you can to allow ONE dominate substrain to 'eat' the
rest. Don't even look at the jar for five days. This how you get a substrain.
Now you are going to let this substrain colonize the little bit of grain on the bottom of the 1/2 pint.
Remember to tape up the tyvek 95% or your grain will dry out.
When finished it should look something like this..
Now you are going to want to prepare plain water syringes... I do four per 1/2 pint isolate... BUT you are
going to want to prepare five and ill tell you why in bit. Also, leave 1 ml out of four of those syringes
Now take your colonized 1/2 pint iso. and break it up in the jar by hitting the jar against your hand,
It shouldn't take much...
Now clean off an injection spot on the tyvek with Rubbing alcohol...
Now take the one plain water syringe that you didn't leave any water out of. flame the needle and inject
the water into the jar...
Now remove the needle and quickly place a piece of tape over the needle hole in the tyvek...
Now kind of gently shake the jar to get the mycelium to come off the kernels and into the water
from your plain water syringe. This acts kind of like a organic eberbach container.
Once completed, clean off another injection spot with R.A. and take your now empty plain water
syringe and poke thru the tyvek (you are going to want to do this as close to the edge of the jar lid as possible)..
push the needle up against the side of the jar. tilt the jar so you get as much
water by the syringe as you can and suck up the mycelium ladened water... when done your syringe should
look something like this....
As you can see the syringe is now only half full. This is because some of the water 'stuck' to the corn kernels..
this is ok.. as you can also see, there is so much mycelium in the syringe that it has a blue tint to it
and you can't see thru it.
Ok, now comes in the rest of your syringes... This one myc. syringe you just made has enough myc. in it to
fill the rest of your syringes... When you PC your syringes, also PC one empty 1/2 pint jar with
two layers of tyvek and band. Use this jar to combine all four plain water syringes (the ones missing the 1 ml
of water) and the one myc. syringe. Then suck up the water and you will have four myc. laden syringes. The only
downfall of this that you have to use the syringes right away or the myc. will die in the syringes. But this is
a great way to get isolates without the use of a glovebox or flowhood. my yeilds have increase at least 30 percent
since i switched to isolates over multispore. Here is a couple of pix of qts i did with this tek.. works like a
charm. first one is Matius Romero and the second is a Texas isolate...
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14369973 - 04/29/11 12:18 AM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (NineInchNails)
NineInchNails lids
I used a little plastic lid as a stencil to find dead center of the jar lids, drilled a small guide hole, and then drilled a 1/4" diameter hole. You can actually stack a few lids on top of each other and drill them all at once. Making sure that your guide hole is DEAD CENTER is important.
I cut out a BUNCH of Tyvek disks using free Tyvek envelopes from the local post office. I used a jar lid as the stencil.
I use the plastic stencil and a pin to mark the dead center of the Tyvek disks. You can stack and mark more than several tyvek disks at a time.
I use RTV high temp silicone to create inoculation points over the pin holes. I leave the silicone to dry for at least 24 hrs.
place a lid on the jars either right side up or upside down (lids do not stick to the jars if used upside down), Tyvek disk with inoculation point, then the jar ring:
Edited by dankakanat (04/29/11 12:19 AM)
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14370041 - 04/29/11 12:30 AM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (dub504)
12 Shroomie Peanut Butter Cup
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1/4 cup butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/4 cup peanut butter
3 tablespoons honey
24 grams powdered shrooms (1.5 or 2 grams per cup works fine)
Keep the temperatures as low as possible for both mixes.
1. In a microwave-safe bowl, microwave chocolate with butter and oil, stirring often, just until melted, less than 1 minute.
2. Melt peanut butter and honey in microwave for less than 1 minute. Stir in the mushroom powder. You might need to stick it in the microwave for another 10 seconds if it stiffens up while you're mixing. (It should stay pretty pliable though)
3. Coat a small cup muffin tin with cooking spray.Pour about a tablespoon of the chocolate mixture into each muffin cup.
4. Once mixed evenly, weigh the PB ball and divide that number by the number of treats you are making. Make smaller flattened PB balls and lightly press into the chocolate in the muffin cups.
5. Top with another tablespoon of chocolate.
6. Chill in refrigerator 30 minutes or until hardened.
You can wrap them in wax paper (like peppermints) and store them in a Seal-A-Meal sack in the freezer until you're ready.
7. ENJOY!!!
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14370075 - 04/29/11 12:35 AM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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Here's a cool pic I found on how a pressure cooker works
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 wildernessjunkie
Do Good Asshole
Registered: 06/13/10
Posts: 4,784
Loc: HTTP 404 Not Found
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: Doc_T]
#14370093 - 04/29/11 12:38 AM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
Doc_T said:
Fuck me, that's a lot of expensive dangerous fail in one place!
Hot, flamable, electric, plastic fun!
This is an excellent way to burn the place down.
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dankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Registered: 06/08/08
Posts: 229
Loc: Unknown
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Re: Links Galore (For People Who Dont Like Search) [Re: dankakanat]
#14370158 - 04/29/11 12:50 AM (2 years, 1 month ago) |
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this is not my tek credit go's to (hyphaenation)
Pucks = Pressed..Substrate..Cakes
I decided to make this thread to consolidate my ideas on Pucks. I have other puck threads but they were for testing the idea and i've learned a bunch since then.
What the fuck is a puck you ask ? Well ... a puck is substrate material that is pressed into shape. The first ones I did looked like a hockey puck and the name stuck.
They can be pressed into many different shapes and sizes. The basic idea is that you take pasteurized substrate material and place it in a form and squeeze. Here's how I do it:
Things you'll need:
A blender
Cardboard
Substrate materials of your choice (choose contam resistant stuff)
Slurry , 9er tek water , LC (any of them)
Yogurt container
Wire strainer
Glass jar
The first thing I do is to soak my materials. This means an overnight soak for the sub materials that will be pasteurized and a shorter soak for the cardboard.
So now we're ready to start the puck making process. First order of business is to place torn up pieces of the cardboard into the blender of water (you can add things like karo , potato water etc if you want to).
Use pulse mode (the first button) at first in short bursts so that the blender can keep up with pulping the cardboard. It takes a bit of practice to get it right , but becomes old hat eventually.
Every time your done pulping a load of cardboard in the blender dump it into the wire mesh strainer over a pail and let it drain. When its drained a bit dump it into a large bowl or other bucket and repeat.
Keep blending until you are done all your cardboard. Other things that work good for the mix and blend well are newsprint and egg cartons (not styrofoam). When its done clean up any messes and head outside.
Now its time to pasteurize your sub material. For this thread i'm using a 50 / 50 mixture of Coir and Garlic straw chips. Use whatever has been good to you over the years. The quickest way I like to pasteurize is to put the materials in a bucket of the hottest tap water possible , filled halfway. At the same time boil a large pot of water (or a pot and a kettle).
When the waters boiled add it to the half-filled hot water bucket and voila ... 160 F'ish water. Let that sit for 2 hours solid (don't skimp) and drain partially and allow to cool. When the pasteurizing is done take a clean tub and dump it in there. Don't worry about extra water because it will be pressed out later.
Take the cardboard pulp that you made and have sitting in a bucket and dump it on the pasteurized sub material. Mix very well and evenly. Make sure to get the cardboard as mixed in as you can.
Now take a jar of TV's slurry (colonized BRF cake blended in water) 9er tek water , or other spawn and slowly start squirting (or sprinkling) it on to the sub mix. Keep flipping and mixing as you add the spawn.
I made a very thick BRF slurry so I decided to water it down before this stage. This gave me a lot more Slurry. I simply added slurry to a jar of water , shook and sprinkled on the sub mix.
When that is good and mixed you are ready to form pucks ! To do that get a yogurt container and a large glass jar ready. Start stuffing the yogurt container with the innoced sub mix. Use your hands to push on the material and get it really packed in there.
Use the glass jar bottom to tamp and press the material in the yogurt container. Then flip the yogurt container over the jar (jar is upside-down) and start pressing with all your might , both hands. Rotate the container as you press , you'll see streams of water as all the extra moisture is pushed out. Keep pressing until there is not much or no water remaining to run.
You've just pressed your first puck !
Now eject the puck on a clean surface by pressing down on the yogurt container bottom. Plop , out she comes.
Repeat this process for each puck and when you are done make sure to put them in a clean , dark , warm place and don't forget to mark the strain name if you are doing multiples.
Here's some of the benefits i've found with pucks:
- Little to no contams (have'nt had one yet , touch wood)
- Long-lasting and many flushes
- Easy to handle and much less fragile then a cake
- Many sub materials can be incorporated into the mix
- Gives rise to large fruits
- All work can be done open air with no PC
I'd highly recommend pressed substrate pucks , especially when you use techniques like slurry and 9er tek that place mycelium everywhere in and on the puck. You can see growth within 48 hours.
Here's some pictures of pucks gone by. I hope you enjoyed this thread and as always feel free to try this at home.
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Edited by dankakanat (04/29/11 12:51 AM)
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