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Invisibledesertturtle
not like the others
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Registered: 06/15/07
Posts: 426
Cars and Trucks
    #13191507 - 09/13/10 08:46 PM (13 years, 6 months ago)

I have the basic set of tools, what can I check/repair myself to keep my vehicle on the road longer?

I already know how to:
-check oil/change oil and filter
-change out spark plugs
-check tires for wear/damage maintain psi
-check/replace air filter

I know there are mechanics among us:thumbup:


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Offlineliterberry
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Registered: 04/19/08
Posts: 263
Last seen: 7 years, 5 months
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: desertturtle]
    #13191598 - 09/13/10 09:05 PM (13 years, 6 months ago)

What kind of vehicle(s) will you be servicing?

-general inspection of serpentine/fan belts

-greasing chassis if applicable

-fuel filter replacement*

-transmission filter and fluid change*

-radiator flush and coolant change*

-replace spark plug wires and other ignition system parts that apply*

*check your owners manual for recommended intervals

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Offlinejoe666
The ReverendToke DBK
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Registered: 09/13/01
Posts: 20,081
Loc: Southern by grace of God Flag
Last seen: 11 months, 23 days
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: desertturtle]
    #13223263 - 09/20/10 06:16 PM (13 years, 6 months ago)

diff fluid change.
easier than an oil change.


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"A politician is like a baby's diaper, it should be changed often and for the same reason"-Coy Turner Sr.

"what is a weed, a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered"--Ralph Waldo Emerson

"I'm sippin Hennessy, riding on my muthafucking enemies" -Meek Mill.


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Offlinebaacra
Stranger

Registered: 09/13/10
Posts: 13
Last seen: 13 years, 5 months
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: joe666]
    #13280772 - 10/02/10 06:07 PM (13 years, 5 months ago)

wiper fluid

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InvisibleMisterMuscaria
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Registered: 05/13/08
Posts: 27,646
Loc: Flag
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: desertturtle]
    #13282068 - 10/03/10 12:12 AM (13 years, 5 months ago)

Brakes are easy to learn.

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Invisibledesertturtle
not like the others
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Registered: 06/15/07
Posts: 426
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: MisterMuscaria]
    #13471406 - 11/11/10 10:17 PM (13 years, 4 months ago)

Thank all of you for the recommendations, I'm learning as I go. Seafoam worked amazingly for me I will add. Introduce it in the brake booster vacuum line and shut off the engine, let it soak in at least 5 minutes, then blast out some smoke!


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OfflinePDU
travel kid vs.amerika
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Registered: 12/03/02
Posts: 10,675
Loc: beautiful BC
Last seen: 8 years, 6 months
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: MisterMuscaria]
    #13652312 - 12/18/10 03:01 PM (13 years, 3 months ago)

Quote:

MisterMuscaria said:
Brakes are easy to learn.




Awesome, i need to change my pads soon but have never done it.

I just read through a tutorial and should be able to do it no problem.

Any estimate of total cost for pads for 94 Toyota Tercel?


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OfflineGrogan
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Registered: 05/20/03
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Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: PDU]
    #13761842 - 01/10/11 03:41 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

If you want some insight pay attention to this..


Change your oil every 3k miles (this mileage amount is higher with PURE synthetics don't get shitty semi syn.. thats like getting half high grade reefer and half dirt weed)

CHANGE YOUR OIL FILTER LIKE ITS YOUR HEART..

AND FUCKING TOTALLY DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT USE FRAM, BOSCH or any other horse shit your advance auto fucks, or AudoZONE, or O my ass hurts reilys stocks.. They are trash with little mickey mouse paper coffee filters.. and NO BACK PRESSURE VALVE

What this means if your shitty fram gets clogged.. your engine gets no oil.. I dont know about you but I want my engine to get oil dirty or clean PERIOD..

Get FACTORY filters, if you have:

Ford = Motorcraft

Chrysler (Jeep and Dodge are chrysler)= MOPAR

GM (GMC Chevy used to be hummer.. Cadillac, oldsmobile, pontiac)  = ACDelco

Now I am not saying this is the ONLY way to go, but its the minimum unless you want your car to be knocking ticking pinging pecking clunking chunking bumping or humping

There are better options... Amsoil, Mobil 1, K&N, Purolater.


Same applies with brakes those shitty ass pads at Assrape Zone (or one of those other shit buckets) Will cost you not only more time and money in the long run.. but maybe even DEATH yes DEATH!

Shitty pads are known to have less stopping ability.. and they also wear out really fast.. plus bleed brake dust everywhere and that shit bonds to everything.. I mean think about it..

Sand + Elmers glue + metal brake backing + Autozone saying its THE SHIT MAN! (auto god after all) + LOW COST = you buying it and thinking you bought gold for silver when you traded gold for a shit pile!!

How the fuck else do they have the warranties they do??
but who the fuck wants to change your pads every day.. or every few months if you are lucky and got one with EXTRA ELMERS!



I advise following the manufacture guide for maintenance... as well they know when most parts fail they do write warranties and that means they researched the SHIT out of it to not lose money..


ALSO do not MIX antifreezes.. if you didn't know there are so many damn types now...

STICK WITH THE GREEN.. if you have green keep it GREEN plain antifreeze is best.. this new shit turns to liquid im gonna rust your shit.

DO NOT COMBINE antifreezes of dif colors.. this is asking for a plugged cooling system in the future.

IF you ever get a P0420.. it doesnt mean your car is like you.. it means change your damn Catalytic converter lol..



ALSO that magic orange haxor unit they use at I am advanced and ur a dumbshit auto parts or AutoBONE    ONLY PULLS GENERIC OBD codes.. not FACTORY ONLY CODES.. DO NOT ALLOW THE ASSHOLES TO CONVINCE YOU TO ERASE YOUR CODES.. if the fucker CAME ON its there for a reason if you delete the shit and figure out "I cant fix this shit"

How the hell is the ASE certified mechanic or dealer supposed to figure out what the hell the deal is when u deleted alllllll the special trouble data (factory only) that was there now its gone?


DO NOT BUY SHITTY plug wires I have bought 3 sets before all were bad and all were NEW.. I bought ONE set of factory plugs (from the dealer and at the same price as the SHITTY ones AUTORAPE sells) and it was PERFECT!


Michelin tires are the best too there are a lot of shitty china tires around they are good for a few weeks then the shittyness shows.. rough ride, road noise.. wobbling buzzing just like the tires are made of paper.. lol and who wants a blow out going 85mph?? and maybe a side of death as well?


more tire info...
make sure to torque your lugnuts to manufacture specified torque ratings..  think about it 2 are two tight from the impact wrench, and the other 2 are WAYYY tight and the last well its barely on..
this is gonna wobble your shit so bad your gonna think your offroading.

And my last word of advice.. be wary of any mother fucker that tells you they know what they are doing because 9 out of 10 are out to fuck you out of your $$$.. Ask for references preferably GOOD ones like a commercial account that uses them.. not jimmy joe that taught him all he knowz!!


Mechanic fraud is the EASIEST shit to pull in the world no body knows SHIT about cars even the super genius mechanics barely know a handful of makes and models like the backs of there hands. all after 25 years working on them.. (there are thousands of parts on each model... try to remember all the stock numbers on a ford taurus part list)




If you want to get rich scam women and clueless guys as a "mechanic" tell them they need a tranny job when it needs plugs.. tell them it needs a motor when its ticking due to an oil change.. people are fucking retarded, and believe any one that is a "mechanic"

you can have like 200,000 in no time..


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"Maybe a cow occasionally ate a shroom, but it certainly wouldn't be such a potent shroom that the cow would be trippin balls. " LOL

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InvisiblePrisoner#1
Even Dumber ThanAdvertized!
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Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 193,665
Loc: Pvt. Pubfag NutSuck
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: Grogan]
    #13767974 - 01/11/11 10:12 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

Grogan said:
AND FUCKING TOTALLY DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT USE FRAM, BOSCH or any other horse shit your advance auto fucks, or AudoZONE, or O my ass hurts reilys stocks.. They are trash with little mickey mouse paper coffee filters.. and NO BACK PRESSURE VALVE

Get FACTORY filters, if you have:

Ford = Motorcraft

Chrysler (Jeep and Dodge are chrysler)= MOPAR

GM (GMC Chevy used to be hummer.. Cadillac, oldsmobile, pontiac)  = ACDelco




so buy the paper filter from the factory instead of aftermarket paper
should we go for the white paper or the unbleached?
in fact, looking at that AC/Delco filter, it's cheaper than most since
the quality of filtration depends on the quantity of paper and most are
in fact manufactured the same AND NOT A SINGLE GODS DAMNED ONE CONTAINS
A FUCKING BACK PRESSURE VALVE, JUST PAPER ELEMENTS AND VARIOUS HOUSINGS

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html





Quote:

I advise following the manufacture guide for maintenance... as well they know when most parts fail they do write warranties and that means they researched the SHIT out of it to not lose money..




I thought it was all about the numbers, 1000 people buy the band name, 10 of them actually collect on the warranty, 1000 people buy the off brand, 10 of them collect on the warranty





Quote:

How the hell is the ASE certified mechanic or dealer supposed to figure out what the hell the deal is when u deleted alllllll the special trouble data (factory only) that was there now its gone?




ASE cert means you went to vocational school, pep boys fro instance
hires ASE certified technicians, my father and father in law are both
ASE certified Master Techs, my father in law spent $1200 on a new
engine  because of the knocking noise I kept telling him was a fuel
pump, dont even ask about the dodge transmission that lasted for 3
months that he had installed in his wifes truck. I had to instruct the
ASE certified tech I was working with that the Olds 350 we just rebuild
and were wearing in was only knocking because we didnt have the fan
shroud on it and the pistons were slapping the walls, as soon as we put
the shroud on, it was gone... I'm just a lowly shade tree mechanic, so
what the hell would I know, I mean I've only been around racing and auto
mechanic since I was a kid

now the ford mechanics charged my mother $600 to replace a master
cylinder that didnt even need to be replaced and damn sure didnt fix the
problem, Honda swears they did the recall service on my transmission but
it's under 60,000 miles and the same problem has cropped back up

you wouldnt happen to be a factory trained or ASE certified mechanic
would you? I sure hope not, you sound like one with all the crap you're
spewing that I hear from them and much of it being wrong


Quote:

DO NOT BUY SHITTY plug wires I have bought 3 sets before all were bad and all were NEW.. I bought ONE set of factory plugs (from the dealer and at the same price as the SHITTY ones AUTORAPE sells) and it was PERFECT!




maybe yoiu just had bad luck or didnt know what you were doing when you
installed them, I've bought cheap after markets, expensive after market
and factory and never had an issue unless it was installer error


Quote:

Michelin tires are the best too there are a lot of shitty china tires around they are good for a few weeks then the shittyness shows




I definitely disagree, I drove about 200 feet to get a car off the road
after puncturing a michelin, I slapped the spare on and took it to a
tire store to get a patch, the opened the tire and the inside was
shredded from a 200 foot drive, irreparable, had to buy a new michelin,
as soon as this set wears out, it's the last set I'll ever own, I'll buy
Hankook, Yoko, Toyo and even Contenental before I ever own another set
of Pirelli or Michelin

I drove 30 miles on a flat hankook through the mountans because the car
I was in didnt have a jack or a spare, it was a rental but the amazing
then was that the tire stayed together, it wasnt usable but it was
actually in better shape than the Michelin  I went 200 feet on


Quote:

more tire info...
make sure to torque your lugnuts to manufacture specified torque ratings..  think about it 2 are two tight from the impact wrench, and the other 2 are WAYYY tight and the last well its barely on..
this is gonna wobble your shit so bad your gonna think your offroading.




who carries a torque wrench for tire changing? I'll answer that, I do.
not because I torque to spec but because it works better for me that a
tire iron and provides plenty of leverage, other than that, I've never
experienced theis issue you're describing since most impacts put them on
pretty tight and even with a 4 lug the car moves just fine with 3 lug nuts

Quote:

And my last word of advice.. be wary of any mother fucker that tells you they know what they are doing because 9 out of 10 are out to fuck you out of your $$$.. Ask for references preferably GOOD ones like a commercial account that uses them.. not jimmy joe that taught him all he knowz!!




arent you telling us you know what you're doing? can we get your
references? how long have you been working on cars?


Quote:

Mechanic fraud is the EASIEST shit to pull in the world no body knows SHIT about cars even the super genius mechanics barely know a handful of makes and models like the backs of there hands. all after 25 years working on them.. (there are thousands of parts on each model... try to remember all the stock numbers on a ford taurus part list)





it's not about remembering part numbers and crap, it's about knowing how
they operate, I dont ever have to have worked on an AMC Pacer to know
that the principals of operation are the same as the Ferrari BB512i
for anything specific I need to know the information can be referenced,
for instance if you dont want to wait 4 months for the mechanical fuel
pump to arrive from Maranello for the 4.9l Columbo in your '87 412
Ferrari I can pop on down to the local Advance Auto Parts buy one for a
1.8l VW scirocco II, swap out the pump arm and machine the base and you
have your ferrari fuel pump

that you can determine by the book

here's a question, what would happen if I replaced the rods and pistons
in a chevy 350 having a stock length from center to center of 5.7" to a
set having a length of 6.125 inches? what also would I need to do to it
to make that combination work?

I think that simple question is far better than references

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Offlineargg
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Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 4,848
Loc: Nigeria
Last seen: 12 years, 9 months
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: Prisoner#1]
    #13768135 - 01/11/11 11:01 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

fram filters do suck. I imagine other generic ones suck ass too but there are good non OEM filters like champ and wix is built well. But fram stands out as garbage. Those are the only ones I have every had to pull parts of them out of a oil filter adapter and have had the housing just crush and fall apart while coming off. Not worth it.

people are terrified of fraud but it happens. I know some shady fucks that sold a lady a trans when it was a wiring harness pigtail. AAMCO= All Automatics Must Come Out. find a local place that does not advertise much and has cars there. Big chains have sales guys up front fro a reason, sales.


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Invisiblehoobatech
Registered: 08/16/04
Posts: 285
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: argg]
    #13776679 - 01/12/11 07:04 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

thats quite the rant Grogan

my 2 cents are whatever your doing to keep your hooptie on the road, more power to you.

But DONT give out advice if its going to be that terrible. seriously. just dont do it. you shame auto enthusiasts around the globe with that trash.


and argg i almost said get some shorter pistons but if in your scenario you already have shorties, i would check the deck height, pistons hitting the head doesnt sound good. ohh, and i'd punch the block our so that you are not only "stroked" but "bored" as well, the kits are cheaper that way. :smile:

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Invisiblelucas_southoz
Adelaidian
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Registered: 06/09/10
Posts: 1,196
Loc: Flag
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: hoobatech]
    #13776854 - 01/12/11 07:33 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Hmmm guys, i have an automatic trans. 4 speed, and it has no engine braking, i could be going umm for you 60 miles and put it into second gear and it just idles unless i put my foot on the accelerator, even when i put my foot down a little its in neutral, i can rev it to about 2 thousand rpms before it thuds into gear. Pretty sure the trans is bout to shit herself?
Im gonna go get a service kit for it later on today, the trans fluid is good.

Edited by lucas_southoz (01/12/11 07:39 PM)

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Invisiblehoobatech
Registered: 08/16/04
Posts: 285
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: lucas_southoz]
    #13776970 - 01/12/11 07:55 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

service kit / torque converter

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Offlineoldschoolfarmer
Briefcase Warrior
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Registered: 03/04/10
Posts: 69
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Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: hoobatech]
    #13782363 - 01/13/11 07:01 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

one thing I recommend checking - all your hoses, belts and grounds. I hate it when I run into a problem and its a barely visible hairline crack in a hose or a rusted ground lol.

If you're looking for a small challenge, performing an auto clutch replacement will teach you a lot in one job. I recommend you pickup a haynes or chilton for your vehicle and don't be afraid to do anything.... except pay for parts you accidentally break ;-)


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I'm with you fellers...

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Offlineargg
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Registered: 07/20/09
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Loc: Nigeria
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Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: hoobatech]
    #13782388 - 01/13/11 07:04 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

hoobatech said:
thats quite the rant Grogan

my 2 cents are whatever your doing to keep your hooptie on the road, more power to you.

But DONT give out advice if its going to be that terrible. seriously. just dont do it. you shame auto enthusiasts around the globe with that trash.


and argg i almost said get some shorter pistons but if in your scenario you already have shorties, i would check the deck height, pistons hitting the head doesnt sound good. ohh, and i'd punch the block our so that you are not only "stroked" but "bored" as well, the kits are cheaper that way. :smile:





bored out cylinders are mainly for repairing wear. stroking it gets the power. that and a mean cam is a good place to start. There is no need to bore a block if its to spec.


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InvisiblePrisoner#1
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Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 193,665
Loc: Pvt. Pubfag NutSuck
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: argg]
    #13788754 - 01/14/11 10:06 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

argg said:
bored out cylinders are mainly for repairing wear. stroking it gets the power. that and a mean cam is a good place to start. There is no need to bore a block if its to spec.




boring cylinders is also for an increase in displacement, it does little
to provide actual power unless you plan on doing other things like a long
throw crank, of course then you want to knife edge it, maybe reduce the
weight of the rods and increase their length, at that point balancing
become pretty important especially if you went with light weight pistons,
balancing could involve adding metal or removing some more. may as well
work on the heads, porting and port matching are great for a street
engine but leave the polishing for the race cars, a dozen or so dimples
in the combustion  side of the head as well as the top of the piston
helps to keep the fuel suspended

that cam, well you better make sure it's ground to work with the torque
converter as well as the intake and certainly never listen to anyone
that uses terms like 3/4 race cam, cams are all about lift, duration and
timing and you really have to know your objective to have the bump stick
ground for your application

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Offlineicanttype
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Registered: 11/18/07
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Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: Prisoner#1]
    #13801806 - 01/17/11 12:06 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

there's nothing wrong with NAPA Gold oil filters either, they're made by WIX


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GGTBod - "Sounds great, get trippin get naked and get animalistic make her laugh and piss all over you, i see no problems here :blush:"

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Offlineargg
Stranger
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Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 4,848
Loc: Nigeria
Last seen: 12 years, 9 months
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: icanttype]
    #13801848 - 01/17/11 12:14 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

napa usually has good stuff. their belts used to be from gates IIRC. It has been a long time since I worked at a napa supplied place but I have a decent amount of trust buying stuff from there.


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Offlinelil_demented
Loner will lone
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Registered: 09/11/06
Posts: 6,146
Last seen: 3 months, 5 days
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: argg]
    #13900909 - 02/03/11 05:32 PM (13 years, 1 month ago)

Check all your vacuum lines. Replace any that are caved in looking or have tears/cracks in them. You'd be surprised how much that vacuum system affects the idle and fuel consumption.

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OfflineRalafe
Whistling Pot
Registered: 09/13/10
Posts: 143
Last seen: 5 years, 5 months
Re: Cars and Trucks [Re: lil_demented]
    #14046706 - 03/01/11 02:28 AM (13 years, 1 month ago)

I'll second the vacuum hose bit, I've done that on almost every used car I've touched (friends, family, et cetera) in the past year. Those things just crumble. I hate to think of all that crud getting sucked into the motor, and then unfiltered air...

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