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Doc's Wild Bird Seed Tek
A pictorial on preparing wild bird seed by simmering.
This pictorial gives step by step directions for
preparing wild bird seed to be used as mushroom spawn or substrate.
Materials Needed:
Pressure Cooker
Wild Bird Seed(WBS) , for instance Pennington's
brand
http://www.penningtonseed.com/wildbird/penn_wbf.htm
Pint or Quart Canning jars
Pint:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000BYDAD/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_f/102-7280860-0026531
Quart:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...lance&s=kitchen
Tyvek
http://shop.usps.com/cgi-bin/vsbv/postal...jsp?OID=1684828
Polyfill
http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=24997&PRODID=12238
Coffee filters
http://coffeetea.about.com/gi/dynamic/of...21%2BUSID%21%27
Aluminum foil
Preparation:
First, take all of the jars that are to be used and wash them really
good and allow them to dry.
Open your bag of WBS and pour enough of it into a jar so as to fill it
up little less than 1/2 way.
Dump this into a colander(strainer)
and repeat for each jar used.
Cleaning the WBS: The purpose of these first few steps is to
thoroughly clean your WBS and to remove any and as much of the
unwanted additives as possible and to remove any unwanted seeds such as
the Black Sunflower Seeds along with any 'Floaters'
Rinse: Run warm tap water over your WBS and mix it up under the
water, really well.
Wash: Place the WBS into a large pot and fill with water,
covering the WBS completely over with about 2 inches of water on top.
Now, you see all of those seeds?
They are Millet(Whitish/yellow)
milo(Redish/brown)
Wheat(Tan)
and Sunflower(Black)
Now, the ones that are floating on top of the water needs to be taken
off and discarded, get them all out of there-yup-everyone of them.
They are mostly just seeds that never fully developed and they are
hollow except for the sunflower seeds and they have no use, well, to me
that is, LOL. Now take your hand and stir, swirl, mix, toss, whatever,
to mix that WBS in that water. This serves two purposes:
- It brings the rest of the "floaters"to the top
- It helps to "clean" it even more. Keep
swirling your hand and picking out all of the floaters, try to get all
of the them and every sunflower seed you see, especially the 'black'
ones.
Rinse: Dump your WBS back into your strainer (colander) and run
warm tap water over it again to rinse.
Soak: Dump the WBS back into your large pot, fill with water,
covering the seed with about 2 inches of water.
Cover with a lid and allow this to set for 12-14 hours at room
temperature. I usually just let mine soak overnight and I find it works
well. The soaking time can be adjusted to your taste though. Some may
find that it takes longer, while others find it takes less.
Soaking serves two purpose: There are certain bacterial endospores that
are very heat resistant. Meaning, that simply pressure cooking
the WBS will not kill them all. So, we allow the grain to soak which in
turn germinates those unwanted endospores. Making them vulnerable to
the high temps of the PC and much easier to destroy. Secondly the grain
is soaked with water to some extent.
At this point you may notice a slight 'fermentation' smell coming from
your WBS. This is normal and will not effect the outcome.
Rinse: Now, if you will notice the water has a RUSTY look to it.
This is the remaining trash (unwanted additives) that we don't want. So
dump this back into your strainer and rinse thoroughly.
Simmer: This serves one purpose and one purpose only - to
soak the WBS in order to achieve the 'perfect' water content for
WBS.
When you simmer, you are forcing the grain to absorb as much water as
it can hold without exploding any grains (there may be a few exploded
kernels, thats expected-just not too many). This step, from my
experience, is the best way to do that. There is no guessing,
estimating, or wondering if you got the right water content, simmering
does that for you.
Load the WBS back into your pot and turn on heat to medium low. Once
you see steam rising, start your timer and simmer for 20-30
minutes. A rule of thumb as to
when the grain has simmered enough, is when about 5% of the kernels
have started to disintegrate-'pop up'. Stir the grain occasionally
during the simmering phase and scoop a spoon-fool of the kernels
and observe for exploded kernels.
DO NOT VIGOROUSLY BOIL THE WBS! If you do boil it, it will cause the
grains to explode more than usual and will hinder your efforts. You can
stir this as it simmers to keep the grains on the bottom from exploding
during this process. When it is done simmering it should look like
this.
Rinse: This is your final rinse. You should notice at this point
that the WBS has swollen. That was caused by the simmering process. It
is now 'hydrated' to the fullest.
This step serves one purpose. To remove any 'gel-like substance' that
has formed on the grain from simmering. I like to use cold water at
this point(preference). If you don't rinse at this point, your grain
will have a 'slimy' appearance when PC'd and you don't want that cause
it will slow colonization , so rinse it well.
Drain: Dump your WBS back into your strainer and allow this to
set and drain for 20 minutes. You may want to cover it with the lid or
foil to keep the top layer from drying out during this step.
Preparation of jars:
Lids: Take a 1/4 inch drill bit and drill a hole through the
middle of the disc.
If you are 'good', you can do all of them at once, but, I would only
recommend that after you feel comfortable with the drill. You could cut
yourself on the discs as the drill bit has a tendency to 'grab' and the
discs will spin with the bit. So just to play it safe-do one at a time.
Take a small amount of polyfill and wad it up so you can stick it in
the hole you just made in the lid and pull it into the hole, just to
where it is snug.
Not too tight. If you get it too tight it will be hard to inoculate it.
I have bent needles because of having too tight, so just make sure it
is 'snug'. I like to take a pair of scissors and cut off the ends that
protrude from the discs. It is, in my opinion, a cosmetic thing - just
for looks (neater appearance).
Tyvek: Cut enough to cover each jar respectively and set it
aside.
Foil: prepare two layers of foil for each jar, just like you
did with the Tyvek.
Load jars: Load each jar 1/2 way with the WBS.
Take an apply the Tyvek over the mouth of the jar .
This Tyvek layer offers an additional protection from airborne
contaminants in addition to the Polyfill filter. If your house is
reasonably clean, you can omit it.
Apply the disc/polyfill filter, put on outer lid ring, and trim off the
excess Tyvek from around the lid.
This is done for a neater appearance also, and cover with two
layers of foil.
Pressure Cook: Load jars into your pressure cooker on top of the
rack that comes with your pc.
If it doesn't have a rack, put a piece of cloth down on the bottom so
your jars do not touch the bottom. If they do they will crack from the
heat. Then add enough water to your PC so that it only comes up to
about 1-1 1/2 inches up the sides of the jars. You don't want to put
too much, but yet you don't want it to dry out either. About 1-1 1/2
inches up the sides of the jars is sufficient. Put on the lid of the
PC. Turn heat on medium high and allow it to vent for 5 minutes. Then
close the vent and allow it to build pressure. Once the weight starts
to 'wobble' reduce heat to medium low and PC for 60 minutes at 15
psi.
Turn off the heat and allow the PC to cool enough to reduce the
pressure. DO NOT manually try to release the pressure. Let it reduce
the pressure on its own. Depending on the
pressure cooker size and the amount of jars this takes from 10-20
minutes.
If you never used a pressure cooker before, read
this document for more information on pressure cooking:
Correct pressure cooker use
Shake: Once the pressure has come back to normal you can
open the PC. Open it and remove each jar, while they are still quite
hot. As you take out each one, shake the crap out of it. This lets you
redistribute the grains evenly. Some have settled on the bottom and
look 'wetter' than the ones on top. This shaking will make them all
uniform.
Cool: Allow them to cool overnight. At least until they are cool
to the touch. Although they appear 'cool', it doesn't mean that the
center of the jars are. So, that is why I like to wait 'overnight', or
at least 12-14 hours at room temp. Do not place hot jars in your
refrigerator to aid in cooling them down-this could crack the jars,
rendering them useless and losing your WBS. Just be patient and allow
them to cool on their own.
inoculation: Once they are cool, it is time to inoculate. This
is easy. Soak a paper towel with alcohol(ethanol pr propanol) . 70% is
preferred, but, 91% is fine too.
Take your syringe and flame the needle until it is glowing red.
Then immediately wipe it clean with an alcohol soaked paper towel and
leave the paper towel wrapped around the needle.
Then, remove foil from jar, hold syringe and alcohol soaked paper towel
close to the polyfill
and in one motion, remove from alcohol soaked paper towel and insert
the needle into the polyfill and through the Tyvek
Inject 1-2 cc/ml into jar. When you remove the needle, hold the alcohol
soaked paper towel over the polyfill and remove the syringe and
immediately wrap with the paper towel
lay it aside. and cover jar with 2 coffee filters and secure with a
rubber band(or tape)
Repeat for each jar used. The reason I like to use the coffee filters
is because when you insert the needle into the jar, it creates a small
hole that could allow for contams to enter. I like to play it safe.
Shake: Once you inoculate all of the jars, take and shake each
one vigorously to distribute the spores throughout the WBS
Then incubate jars at 80°F - 85°F for 2 -3 weeks, until
completely colonized. Once you notice white growth cowering around 20%
of the jars surface shake the jars to redistribute the colonized
kernels. This will speed up the colonization . If you are using a
liquid inoculant, the jars will colonize in less than 10 days, but with
multi spore you have to add 5-7 days to that time to allow for the
germination period of the spores.
Spawn: Once your jars have colonized
it is time to use them. You can either case them using your favorite
casing materials or you can use them as spawn to inoculate bulk
substrates. I have used them both ways without a problem. If you case
them, you may want to add some wet vermiculite as a bottom layer to
give them extra moisture, since grains can only hold so much. I prefer
to spawn them to straw or manure or both. I have also had great success
just casing them with adding nothing but a casing layer, but if you
want a higher yield and more flushes, then I would definitely spawn
them to straw, manure or both!
This is a picture of a casing that was done using my tek and cased
using coco coir.
This is the final results of the first flush of that casing.
As you can see I have had great success using this tek and I know you
can achieve the same by using it also.
For more information on casing please visit here.
Casing
For more information on bulk growing, please visit here.
Bulk
by doc34
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