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Dealing with Mushroom Flies

‘Mushroom Flies’ Damn!



‘Mushroom Flies’

Damn! some bugger fly just flew out of my terrarium! wtf? yaaaarrrgghhh! is my crop ruined?

At some time or other, all mycologists will encounter 'fungus gnats', the pesky flies that are real pests, and need action. these gnats are very closely associated with fungi and decaying vegetation and highly attracted to mycelium and mushrooms. (In fact, I often wonder whether I am really a fungus gnat myself.) They lay eggs in the compost or casing layer, which hatch into critters that, like the adult flies, nibble and tunnel through mycelium, growing and marture mushroooms. Flies flit from tub to tub, often in swarms like locusts on a wheatfield. They may also be the primary vectors for spreading fungal, bacterial and viral diseases, mites and nematodes. Also, the wounds created by larval feeding provide an entry site for secondary soil-borne pathogens.

can you spot him in this picture? what about up close?


Uncontrolled populations of any of the main mushroom pests can result in substantial losses in yield due to both direct larval action and associated disease spread by adult flies. Problems caused by flies found in cropping houses include reduced yield by damaging the compost and feeding on the mycelium, acting as vectors of diseases, a nuisance to the growers/pickers, and possible crop rejection at market. who would go back to again buy a packet of mushrooms that had flies flitting out of it?


Mushroom flies fit into several categories, only one of which (sciarids) represents the true ‘fungus gnat’. [Wherever I refer to ‘fungus gnats’ in the rest of this document, the same will largely apply also to phorids, cecids and sphaerocids.]

Like all flies, fungus gnats have four developmental stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The female adult flies deposit between 50 to 300 eggs (0.2mm) in the compost and the developing larvae pass through four moults (varying in size from 1 to 8 mm) before pupating.

Outbreaks of high fungus gnat populations are linked to high humidity and soil moisture levels - this may have something to do with the insect's vulnerable egg stage. Fungus gnat eggs are very much subject to desiccation.

When the moist conditions that favour egg development are present in a species that goes from egg to adult in only 10 to 14 days, populations are likely to boom. High humidity and soil moisture encourage the growth of the larval stage.



If allowed to enter and uncontrolled, fungus gnat numbers can sometimes soar into an explosion of winged insects.


A : KNOW YOUR ENEMY

Without close examination, these small flies appear to be very similar and are hard to distinguish from each other. However, it is important to know which pest you are dealing with, as treatments are often very species specific - different species of fly might have different susceptibility to munchers and to insecticides so is also important to know which species is present on a crop.

1) True Fungivorids - Sciarid Flies:
Lycoriella castanescens (auripila) and Lycoriella ingenua (mali); Bradysia difformis (paupera), Bradysia coprophila, and Bradysia lutaria.


Adult flies are usually 3 - 4 mm long and with the naked eye can be distinguished from the other fly pests of mushrooms by their long antennae, black shiny heads, long legs and long thin wings. They look like bonsai mosquitoes.



Sciarids are compost feeders and really prefer unspawned compost to that colonised by Agaricus mycelium. The adult flies are attracted by volatiles given off by the compost so are a danger at any time after pasteurisation when the compost is cool. They feed on rotting vegetation, so compost is an ideal substrate for them.

Although exudates produced by the growing mycelium inhibit the larvae, they have been observed browsing on the growing tips and when there is a large infestation the larvae will even burrow right up into the mushroom stipes, the little fuckers. The accumulation of their waste (called frass) also renders the area unsuitable for mushroom growth and makes the place generally unsavoury.


2) Phorid flies:
Megaselia species eg. Megaselia halterata


The phorids, also known as humpbacked flies, resemble fruit flies in appearance but do not have the red eye classic trademark of the fruit fly. Phorid flies are larger than sciarids, with very short antennae and a characteristic hump-back.




Phorid larvae are obligate mycelial feeders therefore the adult flies are not attracted until after spawning. They are unable to fly when the temperature falls below 12C and are therefore unlikely to re-infest mushroom houses between late Autumn and early Summer. The larvae are white, 1 to 6 mm long, are stubby at one end and have a pointed head at the other. They feed on the growing mushroom mycelium but rarely feed on the fruiting body itself, although some species are known to do so. They can be distinguished from sciarid larvae by the absence of the black head and they develop more rapidly into a pupa.


The trademark of the adult Phorids is running, betraying their evil trait of cowardice: even with the naked eye you can watch adult Phorid flies dashing rapidly across surfaces with a rapid, jerky, running movement instead of immediately flying when disturbed.


3) Sphaerocid flies
eg. Pullimosina heteroneura


These are an occasional pest but are usually an indication of poor compost preparation. These small flies have dark colored bodies and are about 3-4mm in length, making proper identification difficult without magnification: the tarsi (last 5 segments of the hind leg) are the key to identifying the Sphaerocerid fly - the first segment is greatly enlarged in sphaerocids.



Most flies of this family generally breed in animal manure and can also be known as small dung flies. There are a few species that feed in any decaying organic matter, meaning that they can be found in mycologists’ compost.


4) Cecids:
eg. Heteropeza pygmaea and Mycophyla speyeri


Cecids are only usually seen as larvae. Cecid flies are rarely seen as the larvae reproduce paedogenetically - i.e. new generations are produced within the body of a 'mother' larva without sexual reproduction - and the flies are very small.




The larvae are obligate mycelial feeders as with the phorids. In a mushroom cultivation environment i.e. high temperature and humidity, cecids can produce a new generation every 4 to 7 days and each 'mother' larva can produce up to 12 new larvae so numbers can increase exponentially. When there is a bad infestation the larvae clump together and (get this) flow over the sides of the mushroom beds onto the floor where they can be inadvertently transported to healthy crops on feet and equipment. Ewwwww.

Cecids are less common nowadays as hygiene and careful selection of casing materials eliminate them as a problem. However, as with the phorids, there is no pesticide available for use against them.

5) Not actually mushroom flies : Thrips, Fruit Flies
Although many growers also refer to their infestations as ‘thrips’ or ‘fruit flies’, this is a misnomer - neither of these are actually mushroom flies : thrips lust after not fungus but flowers and leaves, and fruit flies (similar to phorids, but with red eyes) prefer …. (can you guess?) ..fruit!.

thrip
...fruit fly

Perhaps in time of famine, these may pay a visit to a mushroom growing aea, but mostly these have other fish to fry.


B : PREVENTION:

The best control for flies is strict sanitation, exclusion and farm cleanliness. Stop the buggers ever getting a sniff. Mushroom houses must be airtight and all air vents must have filters. If you can afford to make your growing area a positive pressure zone, with filters on all air intakes, you'll be doing youtself a major favour in pest prevention.

Water management is crucial to controlling fungus gnat buildups: avoid overwatering, and provide adequate indoor ventilation. Moving air is not good news to fungus twats ... er gnats.

ADDITIVES AS DETERRENTS:

dried coffee grounds, tobacco water (from soaking cigarette butts), chilli spray and garlic water have all also been touted as possible deterrents. citronella candles are reputed to deter many flying insects, including fungus gnats. also, crushed leaves of the herb 'tansy' can be sprinkled around the growing area: In Europe and in colonial America in the 1840s, meat was packed in tansy or rubbed with it to prevent decay and to repel flies. The oil distilled from the plant, made a 'mosquito dope' useful to hunters and fisherman and others who had to work where mosquitoes are troublesome.

One major source of gnats is in their (microscopic) egg and larvae forms, in coco-coir and under-pasteurised manure-based substrates. Increase pasteurisation times and temperatures (being wary not to accidentally sterilise). Remove any standing water, or treat it with the long-term biological mosquito larvicide Bacillus Thuringiensis (variants H-14 [Gnatrol] or Israelensis, BTI) weekly for two or three weeks as routine preventative control of fungus gnat larvae. This larvicide gradually settles in water where it is eaten by any mosquito or fungus gnat larvae growing there, which will be killed continuously.

BTI is used to make ‘skeeter dunks’ that look like little donuts (designed to float on water and kill mosquitos), and will keep on working for 30 days or longer under typical environmental conditions. While floating they slowly release at the waters surface. Put some in water to be used for a day or two, to load it with the stuff.

BTI:- tansy:-


You can also drench soil with neem extract. the fascinating Indian Neem Tree (Azadirachta indica) and its unique extracts have an enormously broad range of applications. The oil, extracted from neem tree kernels, has nourishing qualities and is used in India today in many toiletry ranges, including hair-care products, toothpaste and soap. Mahatma Gandhi believed firmly in the goodness of neem and ate neem leaf chutney as part of his everyday diet. The main substance azadirachtin, a tetranortriterpenoid, influences the hormonal system of insects, exerting thereby a pesticidal effect. Feeding activity, reproduction and flying ability of insects are also affected. Azadirachtin has a very low toxicity to mammals, its biologically degradable and can be easily extracted from the seeds of the trees - it can be found as leaves, oil, powder or coir. Note, though that Azadirachtin [Diazinon] has been withdrawn due to fly resistance from many areas.

Neem:-


ADDITIVES AS ATTRACTANTS:

"You get more with honey than vinegar" is suggested by some as ways to tempt the flies from an already-infected casing to their place of execution, to be swatted, stuck, drowned, electrocuted, poisoned, eaten or otherwise assassinated.

Others see this as folly, fearful of bringing more baddies in by attracting them from outside, where they were previously not troublesome. This is one you'll have to decide for yourself.

dishes of vinegar, bourbon, beer, watered dish soap, ‘minty mouthwash’ have all been touted here at the shroomery. Most entertaining of all is the ingenious and old-fashioned 'fly agaric' in a dish of milk, the first to get em stoned and the second to drown them. This inventive use is behind this nickname of the amanita muscaria. It has been used as a fly killer - hence the name. Small pieces of the fungi were added to a saucer of milk. Flies came to feed from the saucer and were killed.

More recommended are those yellow (they love the colour) sticky pheromone-scented flypaper cards near lights to trap the first few arriving critters for monitoring purposes or to minimise numbers.

'fly agaric':-



C : 'MILD ATTACK' MODE:

Starting low-tek, there's manual removal with clean tweezers, applying the business end of a vacuum cleaner hose, drowing the caing inhabitants with a 24h water dunk or a 6h bleachwater (1:200) dunk.

Also heavily supported by myco-enthusiasts are the microscopic exoskeletons of diatoms, sea-dwelling microbes. You can use diatomaceus earth at 3-5% volume in casing mixture or even in compost: it acts like ground glass in grinding their little maggoty bodies up from the inside. Ouch! Good!

And don't forget electric bug zappers, which both lure and kill in one snap.

'DE', Diatomaceous Earth:-



D : 'FULL ATTACK MODE' - BIOLOGICAL AND CHEMICAL WARFARE:


BIOLOGICALS means employing living nature to do its circle-of-life thing and work for you. This can be as passive as a plant, a loose frog or mantis, or as aggressive as sending mites, worms or wasps to eat their eggs and developing children. Venus flytraps will survive in a humid growroom, look teriffic, and should eat the critters (though some worry that the fine hairs may not be triggered by the even finer gnat legs). Green treefrogs will be grateful to eat flies all day, if you can be sure they're not harbouring any unwelcome pests and microscopics of their own. Still, they're good enough for Fungi Perfecti, who made one an 'employee of the month'!



Praying mantises (tinodera sinesis) may sound like a scary option, but i'm not talking about the 4-inch scaryass-looking adults, but the babies, freshly hatched from egg cases. I suggest you move 'em on out by the time they get as big as your hand.



Professional mushroom house kepers release predatory mites (Hypoaspis miles) and nematodes (see below) to control fungus gnat larvae. When fungus gnat food resources are exhausted, Hypoaspis mites will turn to feed on the nematodes -- and be present when fungus gnat populations rise again. Hypoaspis mites are used at a quantity of approx 10/sq foot for prevention, 30-50/sq foot for damage control.



Predatory nematodes - Steinernema feltiae -(the more common species Steinernema carpocapsae offers less impressive results) are naturally occurring tiny worms which live in the water-coated spaces between soil particles. These nematodes have a specialized third juvenile stage, the dauer larva, or infective juvenile, which is the stage which attacks insects: it is nonfeeding, and thus can survive in the soil for extended periods until it is able to find a susceptible host by orienting to carbon dioxide, and host excretory products.



Infective juveniles enter hosts through natural openings, such as the mouth, anus or breathing pores (spiracles). These nematodes carry specific species of bacteria in their intestines. Upon entering the host, the nematode releases the bacteria, where they rapidly multiply, killing the host through release of protein-destroying enzymes, usually within 24 hours. Nematodes then feed on the host remains, and complete two or three generations inside the host. Sounds horrible, but good on em - these are OUR ninja assassins.

When the host resources are gone, large numbers of infective juvenile nematodes leave the host and begin to search for new hosts. At room temperature, it takes steinernematid nematodes about 7-10 days from infection to the emergence of new infective nematodes. Insects infected by steinernematid nematodes are limp, and cream to dark brown in color.

The combination of mite and nematode seems to work very well, but can't always be counted on for the long run, because once they've consumed their pest hosts, they'll die or depart, leaving the plant unprotected.

Another biological control agent is the naturally occurring parasitic wasp Synacra pauperi. This parasitoid is very noticeable on yellow sticky cards. In fact, they are more attracted to yellow sticky cards than adult fungus gnats. The adults are approximately the same size as fungus gnat adults (1/8 inch long) and have a noticeable constriction between the head and the thorax, and the thorax and the abdomen, which tapers to a sharp tip. Antennae are elbowed and the tips are dark and swollen. Females are reddish-brown with black eyes. Males are black with long antennae approximately the same length as the body.



Female synacra wasps insert eggs into fungus gnat larvae. They can develop in each of the three larval instars. The parasitized larvae live until pupation, then die, after which the wasp pupates. However, the parasitized fungus gnat larvae may still cause damage during the interval between parasitization and death. Synacra wasps have been demonstrated to be a useful biological control agent of fungus gnats in Swedish greenhouses to the point that insecticides are generally not needed.


A rule of thumb with biologicals is you can't wait until you get an infestation. All these organisms seem to work best as preventive measures before pest levels build up, and when pest populations are lower. Many commercial growers just monitor with yellow strips, and you can wait until monitoring indicates it's time to act.


CHEMICALS i.e. insecticides may be necessary when the sticky panels or direct evidence indicate significant fly populations in the house:

Those used in commercial mushroom houses include
Methoprene to casing and spawn,
Diflubenzuron [Dimilin, used in aquaculture, possibly found in aquarium shops] to composts and casing layers. Diflubenzuron is an insect growth regulator (IGR) which inhibits the production of chitin in the larvae thus preventing their moulting process. Over the past few years, cases of insect resistance to diflubenzuron have appeared.
Azadirachtin [Diazinon] to mushroom house walls and floors (withdrawn due to fly resistance from many areas, and
Permethrin, Piperonyl butoxide and Pyrethrins to fog mushroom houses for flies (these latter three are not used when mushrooms are present).


SUMMARY



prevention is better than cure
give pasteurising manure an extra half hour, and stick to 170s rather than lower temps
consider getting a bug zapper, and some yellow flypaper strips hung vertically near the trays.
get hold of, and use, some diatomaceus earth (also deters slugs and snails in outdoor beds)
remove all infected casings from the grow area to minimise cross-contamination, and clean up well after yourself.
consider a permethrin-based insecticide in compost and casing layers.
if you have a big operation, consider getting some bugs to work for you as gnat assassins


hope this was useful!

shirley xxx

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